Global trends in luxury eyewear and sunglasses

Thomas Fuller has been right since the 17th century. Seeing is believing. With a global average of seven hours of screen time (and rising fast), we live in a hyper-visually demanding culture. Eye care is the latest frontier in luxury services and goods. When Iggy Pop and Kelly Rowland both have a hit song about shades, you know something’s been mainstream for decades. Glasses and sunglasses can be both ubiquitous and extremely memorable. Try photographing Mahatma Gandhi or Malcolm X without their signature frames. Vivienne Westwood once said that she could not even think without her glasses. For now, the Aviators are back “in” thanks Top Gun: Maverick and President Biden’s stylistic seal of approval.

With the success of Everything Everywhere At Once, its stars Michelle Yeoh, Jamie Lee Curtis and Ke Huy Quan have brought trendy eyewear to the biggest red carpets of the year. In the US alone, the Vision Council of America estimates that more than 60% of the adult population will wear eyewear generating nearly $30 billion in 2022. For sustainability-conscious consumers, it can be challenging to navigate the latest trends in the meantime that independent producers often struggle to reach audiences amid advertising noise. What are the current designer must-haves and future tasters? What factors are shaping the global market? For industry insight, I turned to Glassworks founder Ariel Resnik, an Australian-born, Tel Aviv-based optometric entrepreneur who curates the world’s finest artisans and high-tech eyewear makers. For style tips, I spoke with Olia Kedik of OliaModa, a Sacramento-based fashion accessory designer and Instagram influencer.

Luxury beyond brand

The very notion of luxury in this segment differs from the fashion status quo. The world’s biggest brands tend to outsource accessories and cosmetics to third-party manufacturers.

“Eyewear connoisseurs really care about craftsmanship, slow design and sustainable materials,” comments Resnik. Luxury eyewear is the original bulwark against fast fashion that resists gimmicky marketing and mass production. For example, Hong Kong’s best-kept secret brand Rigards creates truly unique frames using grainy wood, horn, sterling silver and oxidizing metals, which change their aesthetic characteristics over time by engaging with chemicals in the skin. of the user. They were the 2021 winners of the Silmo d’Or trophy, known as the Oscars of the eyewear industry. Since 1917, KameManNen has invested hundreds of hours of manual labor into each of its iconic frames. This brand is Japan’s most influential contributor to the history of optometry. His engineering legacy includes the introduction of titanium in eyewear, which revolutionized the industry and inspired a generation of designers around the world.

No algorithm for a real experience

As revenue from the fashion metaverse accelerates to an impressive 36% year-over-year growth, visionary retailer Warby Parker is adapting its online-only strategy to include more brick-and-mortar stores. When it comes to technology, the eyewear industry has always been an early adapter. However, the experience of trying on a new pair of glasses and perfecting their fit remains intimately human. “Drive-thru efficiency does not appeal to luxury optometry consumers who want to be at the center of the experience,” notes Resnik. A case in point is the success of two brands born in Berlin a decade ago: Kuboraum and Mykita. Different in style, they share a millennial community-building approach to access a better world a framework for changing perspective at the same time.

“Monuments, bodyscapes, fluid identities, the power of masks, infinite languages.” An excerpt from Kuboraum’s concept statement is as fascinating as their climate-neutral craftsmanship. Mykita exemplifies the bright side of the interdependent maker economy, focusing on high-tech quality and fostering “a culture of curiosity and play” in its artists and customers. A real relationship is the ultimate luxury.

Unisex Forever!

Technically, like a medical equipment, glasses have always been unisex. Throughout the years, her design history has expanded our understanding of the masculine/feminine spectrum. From Andy Warhol to RuPaul, glasses have been seen as a tool for gender non-conforming self-expression. Elton John was once estimated to have around a quarter of a million pairs! “Glasses are no longer categorized by gender, really. Eyewear designers think more in terms of materials and innovations,” says Olia Kedik of OliaModa, a Sacramento-based fashion and accessories designer.

For example, Yuichi Toyama is known for the geometric craftsmanship of his designs that emotionally enhance any face. The iconic Japanese designer relies on five guiding principles: Look, Think, Draw, Create, Break. Meanwhile, LOOL hails from Barcelona, ​​the city synonymous with free-thinking, vibrant sexuality and Antoni Gaudi’s visionary architecture. This brand translates urban lines and Mediterranean colors into statement pieces of engineering genius. And Masahiro Maruyama creates such whimsical, yet eminently practical frames that perfectly capture our complex zeitgeist. No wonder the brand is this year’s Silmo d’Or laureate.

Glasses against climate change

Extreme weather is becoming the new normal and there are growing concerns about increased UV radiation. “Refractive needs are a new priority for many people outside of traditionally sunny countries like Israel, California or Brazil. You need ample protection everywhere,” notes Resnik. Conversely, the Arctic Circle is also seeing an increase in demand for quality sunglasses. The Nordic optical market is forecast to grow at a healthy 4% over the next five years. The Italian brand DABRACH has been at the forefront of this trend. Their atelier is located in the Alpine region of Piedmont and is based on the famous hiking heritage. TAVAT is another example of climate conscious design. This family business has its roots in the mountaineering culture of the Dolomites. High-altitude know-how and fashion aesthetics enable ultra-safe and flawless eyewear.

New different views

Italians “invented” modern glasses. Japanese craftsmanship is so legendary that they “invented” repairing ordinary objects with gold! It’s no wonder Italy’s “rivalry” against Japan has powered the luxury industry for decades. However, adventurous consumers are shifting their focus and redrawing the must-have map.

Digital access to designers everywhere and the influence of celebrities everywhere stimulate demand. For example, many South Korean brands are capitalizing on the massive interest in K-pop and K-dramas. Tbilisi maintains its status as a fashion capital thanks in part to George Keburia and those little cat-eye sunglasses beloved by everything Kardashians, Knowles, Hadids, etc. Handmade outside of Sao Paulo, the boldly colored frames from Brazilian label LAPIMA have captured the hearts and faces of South American trendsetters. In Lagos, Nigeria’s first eyewear manufacturer DapMod continues to push the envelope for African design. The global eye care market is projected to double in value from $170 billion last year to $324 billion by 2030, re-energized by the proliferation of new brands with an exciting multicultural approach. The truth is to see it feels good!