An industry “secret” that people like to tell each other is that, before fashion week, they put together a mirrored selfie album of what they plan to wear each day. I do this every season, for every city I go to, and honestly, I don’t hide the practice very well. (I think Obsessive Styles is way more interesting than whatever the “effortless dressing” lie is.)
The process is pragmatic in theory; the pressure to look a certain way is IN. On-trend embellished guests can draw just as much attention as the runway, so let’s consider the implication of what ends up in such a distressed ensemble. Does the need for innovation lead her to another carefully considered and slowly constructed wardrobe? Is this how a Shein burden arises?
Instead of abandoning the childlike joy I get from wearing my silly little outfits and taking my silly little photos, I realized that this New York Fashion Week season is as good a time as any other to codify the attention I hope to instill in myself. designer clothing—and so much more.
Stability
Jacket and pants: Aeron; Bag: SC103; Shoes: Prada
Photos: courtesy of Laura Reilly
Matching Set: Miaou; Bag: APC; Shoes: Dubie
Dress: Vintage via Funding Soon; Bra: CUUP; Shoes: Vintage Miu Miu
An obvious place to start, given the industry’s sins, is the question of sustainability. Many brands either vaguely claim or simply lie about “sustainable” environmental practices. Far fewer are dedicated to demanding renewable resource work or cross-sectoral work responsibilities, for starters.
With an eye toward those who operate beyond lip service, I incorporated pieces from a few top brands. Mirror Palais, a mostly made-to-order brand hosting its first runway show at NYFW this season, is constantly challenging itself to tone down its influence. The fabrics are near-exclusive, all the clothing is made locally in New York City, and the brand is consistently true to a host of values, from size inclusion to anti-racism. New York party-girl uniform purveyor Miaou is also deeply committed to sustainability. With great transparency, the label has defined its local and ethical production flow that takes into account renewable materials, colors, packaging and social initiatives.
Silk Laundry, an Australian label whose sensuous minimal dresses shown at its recent Soho pop-up brought it to mind for NYFW, is another such name. Its goals are specific and related to its homeland of Australia in the areas of sustainability, reforestation and the protection of endangered animals and flowers, and it is on a certain path to B Corp certification. Rentrayage, whose one-of-a-kind pieces are meticulously crafted from sourced clothing and raw materials, also made its way into my wardrobe this week, as did Budapest-based Aeron and Dutch slow-fashion label CAES.
Charity
When you go through the familiar pitfalls of online shopping, it’s kind of fascinating that exchanging URLs can be the difference between thousands of dollars in donations to worthy causes…or none at all. Ahead of fashion week, I linked up with Olivela, a retailer that diverts 20 percent of every sale to reputable NGOs fighting tough battles against poverty, disease and women’s injustices, supporting environmental protection and preserving art.
Of course, the site’s success depends on its ability to move product, and its merchandising mix of luxury and emerging brands seems to be delivering on that; I was able to pull looks from Ganni, Rodebjer, Mansur Gavriel, Dorothy Schumacher, Ususi Sister, and more designers worth wearing to a flowing label function like fashion week.
Visibility
Tank: Soldout.nyc ; Skirt: Vintage Y’s Ending Soon; Bag: From afar; Shoes: Maryam Nassir Zadeh
Photos: courtesy of Laura Reilly
Vest: Row; End: Dries Van Noten; Bag: Mansur Gavriel; Shoes: Maison Margiela
Dress: Mirror Palais; Clutch: Vintage; Shoes: Vintage Giuseppe Zanotti
Another brand I’ve worn in the past and am particularly keen to feature again this season is Bevza. Ukrainian businesses like brand name Svitlana Bevza have even more to gain from public support and visibility now. Her pieces are truly exceptional and among the most worn by attendees each season – her braided bangs were a fixture outside Spring Studios during the February shows, and I foresee the same for the sailor-themed SS22 pieces I pulled for her wearing at the brand’s show this Tuesday.
longevity
Perhaps the most important and achievable value on this list is that of a long life cycle. As an editor, a lot of what I wear during fashion week is sourced from designer stores and PR, and yes, I admit I bought a few things for the occasion. But the building blocks of many outfits are pieces I’ve owned for years and worn season after season.
My trusty Maryam Nassir Zadeh Olympia wedges feature heavily in my planned outfits, as does my simple APC shoulder bag with brass clasp. My Soldout.nyc white tanks are an invaluable styling tool to have on hand, and my Sundar Bay oversized white button down similarly makes its way into a variety of looks.
The pieces I bought with the intention of wearing this week, I made sure were quality items that could last for years, if not decades: a luxe ‘The Row’ knit vest, a simple white jacket over the face and deceptive. electric blue paris georgia versatile pants.
Proximity
Pants and bag: Gemsun; Top: Haus; Generation: Michelle Del Rio; Shoes: Balenciaga
Photos: courtesy of Laura Reilly
Top: Acne Studios; Skirt: Vintage Comme des Garcons via Ending Soon, Bag: JWAnderson; Shoes: Fendi
Set: Bevza; Bag: APC
Keep your friends close and their brands closer. I’ve broached the subject before, but keeping a healthy number of things your inner circles do is truly one of the most stylish things a person can do. The crowded landscape can be impossible for new brands to break through, but we have the power to make them heard; family names are built from the ground up.
I’m especially lucky to be surrounded by incredibly talented people I can call friends, and their creative pursuits are among my favorites to showcase at NYFW’s endless events and celebrations. Gemsun’s crocheted accessories are a mainstay and its newest ready-to-wear is proving to be just as happy in my wardrobe. Michelle Del Rio’s mysterious sheer skirt and talisman belt make me feel interesting; are some of my most worn items. Haus Label’s sports-inspired pieces are summer staples that I now proudly start almost every outfit with. And Colbo’s menswear can easily be stolen for my womenswear too.
