Italian fashion houses are in the midst of a shake-up at Milan Fashion Week | Fashion


London’s catwalks were muffled and silent in national mourning – but in Milan, fashion week is in high spirits.

The Italian fashion industry is on track for its best sales year in 2022. Opening the week of fashion shows, Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, said “in 2022, we will reach and we will even exceed the level of sales created before the crisis of 2008, by recording [Italian] The highest income of the fashion industry in 20 years”.

Fendi, a 97-year-old titan of Italian fashion, has transformed from sprawling luxury to a pop cultural force under British designer Kim Jones. After making a bold grab for New York fashion airtime by collaborating with Marc Jacobs and Sarah Jessica Parker for a birthday bash on the runway for Baguette Handbag in Manhattan two weeks ago, the scene for the second show of the season Fendi was a 1990s warehouse party, with neon-painted steel podiums zigzagging across a concrete floor.

Outside, traffic was held up by chauffeur-driven celebrities, brightly clad influencers and an army of street style photographers. Inside, piano house anthems bounced off the walls as the catwalk was filled with cargo pants sporting oversized pockets and silk parachute ties, and runner-back vest dresses, worn braless, tucked into Spice-sized platform trainers Girl.

Fendi has been turbocharged from stretched luxury to a pop culture force under British designer Kim Jones. Photo: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images

In the tradition of Italian fashion, the Fendi family is still at the heart of the house, and Jones said the look was inspired after he noticed Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the house’s 30-year-old scion and current jewelry designer, pulling archival pieces “from the period between 1996 and 2004, when Karl [Lagerfeld] was here” to wear.

The energy of the millennial age is proving irresistible at all levels of the fashion industry, from TikTok-driven teenagers to the most luxurious Italian brands. “I think when you look back on those years now it seems like it was just a really great and fun time,” noted British fashion designer Christopher Kane, who attended the Fendi show three days after returning to fashion week in London. Sunday. “And the clothes were effortlessly cool.”

The energy of the millennial era is proving irresistible, so the catwalk was filled with Spice Girl-sized platform trainers.
The energy of the millennial era is proving irresistible, so the catwalk was filled with Spice Girl-sized platform trainers. Photo: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images

Milan is in the midst of a shock. Competing for a bigger share of what is proving to be a lucrative post-Covid comeback, some of the city’s famous fashion houses have hired relatively little-known young designers to debut on the catwalks this week.

Maximilian Davis, a 27-year-old British designer of Trinidadian-Jamaican heritage who learned his early tailoring skills from his grandmother as a child in Manchester, has been catapulted from a household name to leave in the week of fashion in London at first. the home of Salvatore Ferragamo, where past clients include Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn.

At Missoni, synonymous worldwide with the colorful zigzag, creative control has finally passed from the family to Filippo Grazioli, who takes on his first front-of-house role after behind-the-scenes stints at Burberry and Givenchy. Etro has also appointed a designer from outside the family for the first time, with the arrival of Marco de Vincenzo, who has said he aims to prioritize sustainability by introducing recycling at Etro’s 55-year-old house.



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