Historically, when it came to menswear, change came at a slow pace – the shift from flat-front trousers to pleated trousers took nearly a decade. But in recent seasons, menswear collections have begun to evolve at a much faster rate, with men’s sensuality being brought into greater focus.
This was one of the main topics of conversation during the Spring 2023 season. Gen Z’s liberating movement through genderless street style looks – a sea of fun t-shirts and transparencies – and some very influential moments on the red carpet from stars like Timothée Chalamet and Lil Nas X have definitely penetrated the fashion subconscious – and it’s about time.
Thom Browne has been playing with genderless fashion for several years now. When Oscar Isaac appeared on several red carpets this year wearing Thom Browne pantsuits, no one batted an eye. But his spring 2023 collection was truly revolutionary by menswear standards. “The collection shown by Thom Browne on Sunday night was one of the most thoughtful of the week, with the designer feeling freer and wilder than ever,” WWD’s Samantha Conti wrote in her fashion review.
The collection featured an interesting contrast between his traditional suiting options, bags and outerwear, all covered in his spring tweed, with very low-cut trousers, crop tops and visible belts, resulting in a provocative, modern and new silhouette that had all the buzz after the show.
“I thought, why not? The quality, play and proportion was so much fun and I wanted to push it. I think it’s time people start pushing it a little further again. Even with the fabrics and tailoring, the boys looked really masculine. I think it’s important that we all recognize the world we live in and how much more evolved everyone is — in certain ways,” Browne said.
Another brand that played with size to allow for a provocative and genderless message was the new and influential brand EgonLab. Ultra-short leather shorts paired with oversized blazers, see-through ensembles and some shirtless looks added a youthful edge to the trend.
“I feel more and more free, so I want to explore more and more. Courrèges’ image has always been a bit stiff, said designer Nicolas Di Felice. His designs with cutouts in the chest area and blouses that curled sensually around the body were clear examples of that exploration. And when we added accessories, including pearl jewelry and thigh-high neoprene boots, the result was sexy and cool.
A look at Rick Owens’ low-cut tops, open-knit sweaters at Louis Vuitton, cropped mesh shirts at Celine and crisp detailing at John Elliott, Dior Homme and Louis Gabriel Nouchi – to name a few – were key elements of this ongoing conversation. resulting in one of the most provocative trends of the season.
