Milan takes longer as Moncler, Ferragamo, Bally add to fashion week’s busy schedule


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Italian fashion association Camera Della Moda CEO Carlo Capasa is calling on New York, Paris and London to consider giving more time to Milan Fashion Week as it announces a packed schedule Spring/ Summer 2023 for September, including 67 shows.

“This is a positive problem as it illustrates the vitality of Italian industry,” Capasa said in an interview. “But also, it’s crazy. We can’t have 12 or 13 shows every day on the calendar, plus presentations. We have had to drop some brands. I have already spoken to the other fashion weeks and said – with the greatest respect – that we need one more day.”

The provisional schedule for Milan in September, published today, is certainly packed – with Antonio Marras returning on Wednesday morning; and Sunday’s live shows, which include Giorgio Armani’s tentpoles and the recently announced Milan debut of Matty Bovan with support from Dolce & Gabbana. Highlights in between include Diesel’s public appearance and Etro runway debut by Marco De Vincenzo; Salvatore Ferragamo by Maximilian Davis; Bally by Rhuigi Villaseñor and Missoni directed by Filippo Grazioli. Another will be the first live group runway presentation by WAMI (We Are Made In Italy), the Michelle Ngonmo scouted collective of self-described BIPOC designers run alongside Italian designer Stella Jean and born Edward Buchanan in the USA, who in the 1990s was Bottega Veneta’s first designer.

Stilwarts including Prada, Max Mara, Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Versace remain present and correct. Moncler will hold a special show on Saturday night to mark the 70th anniversary of a label that is one of the few fashion companies founded in France but owned and operated in Italy. Other late night shows include Boss at 9pm on Thursdays and Vitelli at 9.30pm on Fridays. Kamera’s ‘Fashion Hub’ for new and emerging designers returns, as well as its graduate runway show and Sustainable Fashion Awards event.

“Fashion is complex. It’s business, and it’s art at the same time – it’s a cultural industry,” said Capasa. In Italy, that industry is taking a little longer to share its abundant produce.

The production and export of Made In Italy fashion products generated over €34 billion in 2021, up from €32.2 billion in 2019. Italy is also the source of many luxury goods: over 80 percent of the supply chain of the French luxury conglomerate Kering, for example . , located in Italy. Increasingly, however, the global luxury industry’s main source of goods is finding itself starved of the time it takes to showcase its wares to the global fashion community of buyers and editors.

“We don’t have enough days. This is not my opinion, as it is. At the moment we are involved, like London, between fashion weeks in New York and Paris”, said Capasa. “I would like to see New York start a little earlier in the future, to allow us to start on Tuesday without losing time to London. We also used to go until Tuesday instead of Monday, but then our friends in Paris started scheduling shows on that day. We are extremely cooperative and cooperative and respect the global system, but we have to work it out.”

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