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From avid hikers to streetwear influencers, you can spot cargo pants and the military aesthetic everywhere today. This season, however, designers are taking an experimental and structured approach. Luxury brands like Off-White, Valentino and Act Nº1 went all out with their latest runway looks sporting military aesthetics. Fashion houses like Coperni, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton and Diesel also included these styles on their spring 2023 runways. Even celebrities like supermodels Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, actress Emily Ratajkowski and singer Rihanna are making it again cute this style. With its growing popularity, experts decipher this fashion mission for us.
“Military inspired fashion is the biggest trend of the season. It’s not limited to trousers, but it’s everything cargo: skirts, shorts, jackets and similar ensembles,” informs Amritha Ram, creative director at KH House of Khaddar. Designer Aniket Satam adds to the sentiment, saying, “Warrior fashion becomes mainstream when people can relate to the core idea of protection. After the pandemic, we can all relate to this collective feeling, making it a trend this year.”
What is the military?
Think camouflage prints, utilitarian details and silhouettes, and rustic color palettes including khaki, olive, teal and brown. “These become the main styling elements of the military. Some of the accessories under this trend include dog chains, berets, hats and patches,” informs Satam. Designer duo Rishi and Vibhuti add that everything associated with a military uniform – from the choice of dark colors, functional accents like pockets, zippers, buttons, etc. to camouflage patterns – fall into this style.
evolution
Some reports suggest that the style was inspired by British military uniforms of the 1930s. The uniforms were designed to make it easier for soldiers to carry extra ammunition and other supplies needed on the battlefield. It was adopted by the fashion industry later, when seen through a utilitarian lens. The pocket-heavy design became huge in the 90s and early 2000s and is seeing a rise again with the rise of Y2K fashion.
“It has undergone a high-fashion makeover, translating into tailored silhouettes, interesting pocket placements filled with ultra-luxe fabrics, clever detailing, modern cuts and a variety of shades,” says Ram.
Style it right
While everyone wants to jump on the trend, Satam warns that overdoing it can look like cosplay. “Add one element and build the whole look around it, like wearing big combat boots or a camo print shirt. Simple and good color blocking with olive green, khaki or brown can work well too,” he says. Agreeing, designer Rishi Roy adds more about anchoring the look with accessories: “Either go for military-inspired accessories or invest in some outerwear, like a khaki jacket, a heavy wool coat, or a bomber jacket nylon with badges. and patches.”
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