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Samuel Ross, 31, is one of the most inspiring designers in fashion today – a multi-disciplinary artist who has continuously entwined the worlds of art, style and architecture since launching his brand A-COLD-WALL* in 2015, which has gone on to become one of the most desired clothing brands in the world.
In 2020, the London-born, Northamptonshire-raised creator launched the Black British Artists Grant program, which aims to combat the lack of black designers, artists, photographers and architects in the UK year-on-year. Ross’ goal? To open the doors for the next generation of creators to have a seat at the table. The Hublot Design Award and British Fashion Award winner—and LVMH Prize and ANDAM Award finalist—was just a rookie when he was appointed as the late, great Virgil Abloh’s first design assistant in 2010 (the pair worked on Pyrex Vision and the launch of Off -White™), but Ross has since been hailed for his Brutalism-inspired approach with A-COLD-WALL* and collaborative projects—ranging from the devastating Converse Aeon Active CX sneaker to the sculptural creations for Concrete Objects .
ACW’s latest link* with Dr. Martens is all about casual workwear combined with subcultural influences. Ross and his ongoing commentary on the UK’s cultural zeitgeist becomes more relevant with each season, and this two-part release is no different. Based on ACW* and the ongoing partnership of Dr. Martens, which launched in 2020, the new shoe offering uses light and shadow to create minimalist interpretations of the 1461 shoe and 1460 shoe. Accented by a branded zip fastening in place of the typical Dr. Martens lacing system. Martens, Ross continues to enhance the distinctive look of the ACW* with a clean, monochromatic color palette and a dual height Bex heel.
We caught up with Samuel Ross and the new creative director of Dr. Martens, Darren McKoy, to learn more about the pair’s long relationship, finding inspiration in brutalism, Virgil’s lasting influence on Ross and the future of footwear.
“Virgil started as my boss and it was an honor to work with a senior creator who, at that moment, was about to turn the industry around… We miss you, V.”
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