Simone Rocha London Fashion Week SS23 Runway Show

Did Simone Rocha Just Steal London Fashion Week Before It Was Over? With her Spring/Summer 2023 collection, which debuted earlier today at the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales – colloquially known as The Old Bailey – it looks like Rocha may have done just that. With a formative background that began under Lulu Kennedy’s Eastern Fashion class of 2010, as well as an education at Central Saint Martins, Rocha has made a name for herself by consistently delivering season after season; each prepared in her usual romantic design language.

For SS23, Rocha took us to court and we solemnly swear it was her biggest achievement to date. Not only did the designer present her first fully formed menswear collection, but she also managed to marry this innovation with the house’s codes and the expected level of attention to detail in both lines.

To the tune of poignant opera music (a soundtrack that heightened the excitement in the room itself), tulle formations enveloped the body in gentle waves, working together with floor-wrapping ribbons and baroque floral motifs to create a sense of drama and statement looks that are not missing. Pearl beads adorned the shoulders of sweater vests, as well as the straps of larger-than-life backpacks and, of course, Rocha signature bags reminiscent of the pearls themselves.

The nod was given from the second menswear set down the runway, as Rocha demonstrated the symbiotic relationship between her well-established womenswear catalog and the new menswear range. Tulle was served in cream but had a decidedly harder edge to it, eschewing frills for the structural formations that fall from oversized bomber jackets. This combination – a soft and hard approach – taps into Rocha’s ability to be aware of commercialism as a designer, knowing full well that the general menswear shopper might not want to opt for frills, but still might. access the view through the aforementioned bomber.

Likewise, another bomber jacket – this time in a traditional shade of shiny khaki – teamed with cargo pants and echoed the straps embedded in the jacket by also placing them on bare legs. The harmony came when the following look, this time womenswear, saw the iconic shape of the bomber jacket transformed into a puffy technical dress, while on the other side, the next look, now again menswear, consisted of an apron cream adorned with pearl detail, seated. over a white blouse and floral pants, bringing us soft-meets-hard fashions once again.

White T-shirts were never just plain, with one sporting a three-dimensional sculpture on its front. Rocha florals decorated a cream satin coat that evoked thoughts of Maison Margiela’s quilted coat as her jackets flapped carelessly, while menswear kept things fairly traditional and trimmed in black.

It wasn’t just a promising effort from Rocha; Her menswear collection, now in its most complete form to date, was enough to instantly catapult the designer into this relatively untapped world for her. References to Lee Alexander Mcqueen and a fashion-inspired finale consisting of a white bridal ensemble concluded the masterpiece show.

Speaking about the collection, Rocha said her harnesses were a reference to the concept of physically harnessing her emotions over the past two years. On her menswear, she said:

“I am really proud [deliver] menswear, I felt like I could work in this beautiful masculinity. It’s justification for everything I’ve done in the last ten years, what that role plays and how it crosses between the two – and I really wanted to explore that within masculinity.”

Simone Rocha’s SS23 runway show can be seen in the gallery above, while more London Fashion Week SS23 content can be found across Hypebeast and on our new Instagram channel, @HypebeastUK.

For more must-see shows, check out the big winning collection from JW Anderson.

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