A relaxed suiting silhouette, shown mostly without a shirt, with a soft shoulder construction and worn over voluminous, flowing and pleated trousers, emerged as the main sartorial trend for the spring season.
Mr. Armani, the creator of this softer look, offered a powerful Giorgio Armani collection full of lightly tailored suits, perfect for the summer seasons. The gorgeous sartorial display came in white, beige and black hues and some were so lightly constructed that they resembled pyjamas. Backstage after the show, Armani said he wanted to show “classic pieces” styled in a new way. The mission was accomplished.
Young designer Hed Mayner presented a gender-fluid collection that included a new and youthful take on the traditional costume. This new sartorial option complemented his proportion play from other sportswear pieces and outerwear options. “Proportion is about removing class, gender, status, whatever,” said Mayner backstage, who asserted that it’s not about being female or male. His attempt at inclusion resulted in one of the most driven suits of the season.
American designer Mike Amiri’s spring collection warranted praise: a confident new take on American classics, artisan patchwork designs and some of the lightest suiting construction of the spring 2023 season. Double-breasted jeans were so easy so that they could fit right into the waistbands of the trousers. Some of the pants themselves were convertible, with snaps attached to the side that could be undone “to go over sneakers,” Amiri said backstage, adding to the effort’s modern sartorial feel.
“What do men need today? And how can we evolve tailoring?” Ermenegildo Zegna creative director Alessandro Sartori wondered in a preview with WWD before the show. The result was a range of super lightweight suit shapes in dusty colours, including soft pinks and light oranges, with traces of activewear and workwear details. Other sartorial pieces included kimono-cut jackets, ethereal coats and double-breasted jackets, some with shirt collar details instead of jackets. Sartori’s journey of sartorial discovery has been one of experimentation and innovation, and his influence is evident.
Other trend highlights included: leisure-inspired summer suits at Hermès in gelato tones; Kim Jones’ new take on Side Buttoned Oblique Tailleur, featuring gently constructed suit jackets with a layered jacket that resembles a pair of buttoned sleeves and the effortless elegance of Officine Generale’s ultra-slim cotton suits. All featured a modern take on traditional men’s staples.
