First Nations fashion is about much more than just clothing.
Main points:
- The National Indigenous Fashion Awards were held in Darwin last night to recognize First Nations creators in the fast-growing industry
- Arnhem Land’s Babbara Women’s Center and Maningrida artist Esther Yarllarla were recognized at the awards
- Artists and organizers say the indigenous fashion industry creates opportunities for economic development and cultural awareness
According to one of the people behind the National Indigenous Fashion Awards, the fast-growing industry is a gateway to greater recognition of First Nations people and culture more broadly.
“When we come together as Australians to make decisions about things like [Indigenous] voice in parliament… people will have a better understanding,” said Darwin Aboriginal Art Fair Foundation Chair Franchesca Cubillo.
“Because they’ve had those conversations with First Nations people, because they’ve bought those textiles or seen paintings or fashion.
The third annual NIFAs – which see Indigenous designers and artists from across the country recognized for their work – were held in Darwin last night.
“It’s so overwhelming to have First Nations people coming from all regions of Australia coming to Larrakia country,” said Ms Cubillo – who is a Larrakia, Bardi, Wardaman and Yanuwa woman.
She said the awards provided a platform for First Nations artists to showcase their work to a wider audience and provided economic opportunities for Indigenous communities.
“It’s black excellence, it’s incredibly empowering and the beautiful thing is there’s a wonderful economic return that happens as well,” Ms Cubillo said.
“It means our First Nations creators have really clear pathways to engage in what is the Australian Fashion Industry, it’s a $27 billion industry.
“Our aesthetic is ancient and tens of thousands of years in the making, but just as recent … as we’re seeing it gracing the catwalks … in Milan, London and Europe, Asia.”
Arnhem Land artists at the forefront of fashion
Kunibidji artist Esther Yarllarla won the Traditional Ornament Award for her Mokko (bark skirt) made with traditional weaving and knotting techniques.
Hailing from the Arnhem Land community of Maningrida, her work is part of a cultural practice she learned from her mother and is now passing down to the next generation.
“I started at the age of 10, right back,” she said.
“I’m teaching my grandchildren now. Telling them stories.”
She brought all the artists from the Babbara Women’s Center – the arts center she works out of – on stage to receive her award.
“I’m happy, but I was shaking – it was my first time coming [to the awards],” she said.
“I told them ‘let’s go together'”.
Originally established in 1983 as a women’s shelter, the Centre’s textile manufacturing arm, Babbara Designs, was also recognized at the awards as one of Australia’s oldest continuously operating Indigenous textile enterprises.
Artists from the Center have gone on to display their designs at an exhibition in Paris.
“We’ve gained such an incredible audience from social media and the Babbara Designs side of our business has just given our artists such incredible opportunities for travel and financial independence,” said Babbara Women’s Center Assistant Manager Ziian Carey.
“It’s giving a platform to our artists to tell their stories, to tell their culture.”
The industry is expected to grow, become ‘at par’ with indigenous art
Wiradjuri designer and founder of Melbourne-based fashion company Ngali, Denni Francisco, won the designer award for her collection created in collaboration with Gija artist Lindsay Malay.
This is the second year Ms Francisco has won the award, with her win last year allowing her to receive mentoring from Country Road.
She said there has been a massive “resurgence” of First Nations fashion in recent years.
“Not that it wasn’t there before, but now there is more visibility,” she said.
“With that visibility comes more inspiration.”
Ms. Cubillo said the future of indigenous fashion is bright.
“We will find more and more First Nations designs and fashion appearing in the front windows of David Jones and Myer and flagship stores,” she said.
“First Nations textile design and fashion will be an industry on par with Indigenous art.”
