Why Thrift, Upcycling Are ‘The Only Relevant Conversation’ In Fashion – WWD


Thrifting is officially a mainstream movement in the US

And National Thrift Store Day on Wednesday counts many new (and longtime) fans in fashion about the history, fashion and importance of thrift products. Whether it’s the inspiration behind a new fashion design show called Upcycle Nation coming this fall, or the resurgence of brand names and Y2K fashion, thrift is doing a lot for American shoppers.

What is National Thrift Store Day?

Most Americans have bought something secondhand in their lifetime. And today, everyone from brick-and-mortar thrift mainstays like Goodwill, municipal waste programs like New York City’s DonateNYC (with 30 participating thrift stores) to online retailers like ThredUp have promoted messages for National Thrift Day. Thrift Store. According to the National Association of Resale Professionals, or NARTS, the number of physical thrift stores stands at 25,000 in the U.S., contributing to the multi-billion dollar resale industry that is estimated to reach $77 billion by 2025.

Although the narrative is increasingly dominated by online resale, the early American thrift movement finds roots not only in industrialization but also in World War I rationing and price smarts. But it wasn’t until Earth Day emerged in 1970 that National Thrift Store Day shows any record of official celebrations. Originally intended to attract financial support for local thrift stores and their charitable causes, the holiday has since evolved into a wider, promotional and environmental call to action to spend less and buy more hand-me-downs. second.

What designers say about saving

More than half — or 54 percent — of Americans are experiencing more throwback trends thanks to the convenience of secondhand, according to a recent report from web-based styling platform StyleSeat. Surveying more than 1,000 American consumers, trends include everything from an affinity for Y2K fashion, sportswear, sporty sunglasses, mom jeans, cargo, paint and related kits.

For this reason, designers are still betting on used goods for the future.

“Upcycling is technically the only important conversation we need to have these days in all industries, as we see landfills piled up with bottles, blankets, clothes, bags, furniture often with the tags still on them,” fashion designer Jérôme LaMaar told WWD. “We are living in an age where goods are created rapidly and worn once and thrown away. This lifestyle needs a practical solution that has the style and imagination to bring a new way to experience our favorite goods.”

LaMaar, along with upcycling innovator Peder Cho and “Claws” actress Karrueche Tran are judges for Fuse’s new show “Upcycle Nation,” which will air in November 2022. The show showcases how aspiring designers from across the U.S. transform previously discarded items into wearable items in hopes of inspiring a collective — and stylish — solution to loss.

A longtime thrifter, LaMaar said, “Very often when I wear thrifted things mixed with my high fashion, it becomes a trend later,” likening it to a kind of gift and curse that means the pieces more dynamic are no longer found as frequently. “Thrift is hot simply because the level of craftsmanship doesn’t exist at that level in the current fashion climate. Now, I try to buy things that feel magical to my personal taste – like nice jewelry or glasses.”

Why labels lead, the crossroads of consumption

Unsurprisingly, the hunt for brands and designers is driving thrifty shopping behaviors.

Data-driven online resale platforms document how name brand apparel—names like J. Crew, Lululemon, Nike and Levi’s—consistently increase searches and sales. A recent report by Recurate, however, said that fast fashion brands were second only to mid-priced brands in terms of demand. A closer look at ThredUp’s data shows that Shein’s inventory alone grew by an astounding 186 percent from 2020 to 2021.

“To see fast fashion so high on the priority list of respondents in this report surprises me, but I wonder how the results would change if vintage were factored into the equation,” commented Emily Stochl, director of education and community engagement. in non-profit advocacy. Remake, as well as host of the Pre-Loved Podcast.

Reflecting on the thrift ecosystem, Stochl believes that today’s shoplifter is caught bemoaning the comparative and unique quality of clothing from past eras compared to today’s lower-quality, mass-produced clothing. She contends that labels—regardless of price or quality—make it easier for newcomers to enter the secondhand conversation.

“Especially for medium and plus size thrift shoppers, I often recommend this as a great option to upgrade to specific pieces available in your size from brands you already know,” she added. “In addition, it is also an easy way for ordinary fast fashion people to slowly switch their purchases from first-hand products to second-hand products.”

However, she is wary of overconsumption. “With the growing popularity of thrift shopping, I think our consumer education for the thrift shopper will need to focus on reducing thrift shopping altogether, so we don’t just copy overconsumption habits.”





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