Many would argue that the best seat in the house at New York Fashion Week is in the front row. Watching the season’s latest looks on the catwalk among celebrities, socialites, editors, influencers, and camera-ready shoppers has a certain appeal—and it’s a pretty interesting social experiment to witness IRL. However, as someone who spent the better part of her career reporting behind the scenes, I would argue that behind the scenes provides an even better view of the (unfiltered) action. It’s also where the biggest names in the beauty world play.
Rock star stylists, makeup artists and manicurists all descend on the Big Apple for a few high-pressure fun-filled days and are crucial when it comes to bringing a stylist’s dream to life. These pros transform supermodels into everything from “human bouquets” (seen at SHAYNEOLIVER’s Fall 2022 show) to “mushroom-stumbling aliens” (seen at Rodarte’s Spring 2022 show) using paints, polishes, and often potions their secret. “Seeing something imagined in my head translated into patterns never gets old!” says makeup artist Pat McGrath, a fashion powerhouse with countless seasons under her belt.
While NYFW is known to produce slightly more appropriate beauty statements (at least compared to London, Milan and Paris), there are still plenty of artists pushing the boundaries – and somehow still re-imagining smokey eyes, ponytails and nails nude in exciting, new. ways. “New York is where it all starts,” McGrath adds. “Personally, I always look forward to fashion month because it’s a time where creativity is foremost on everyone’s mind.”
Ahead of the Spring/Summer 2023 shows, TZR shines a spotlight on some of the backstage legends who have produced some of the most iconic looks to ever grace the runway.
Behind the scenes, McGrath is known by one name: “Mother.” (In other circles, she’s a Dame — the first makeup artist ever to be given the title by the Queen of England.) The legendary professor is arguably the matriarch of fashion’s biggest family and has been a staple in some of the shows biggest hits on the NYFW calendar since she hosted Anna Suit’s fall-winter show in 1998. Always dressed in an all-black uniform complete with a matching headband, the unflappable beauty force consistently delivers stunning looks that are nothing short of makeup masterpieces. Expect to see feathers, flower petals, crystals, glitter, paillettes and, of course, makeup from her eponymous line, Pat McGrath Labs, used in the most glamorous and glamorous ways.
McGrath also told TZR that she’s especially excited to see her brand’s latest collaboration with Supreme — a trio of black, white and red nail polishes — “in the wild” this season. The polishes will be added to the over 60 professional’s suitcases, filled with beauty treasures that travel with her around the world. The mother comes prepared, because everything she creates is, as McGrath often says:major.“
Palau, one of McGrath’s main partners in crime, is a legend in his own right. During NYFW, the iconic head is reserved and busy, creating looks for fashion’s biggest names. He’s also one of the most versatile and prolific hair stylists in the game—creating gravity-defying styles at Tomo Koizumi, updos at Tory Burch, sleek braids at Proenza Schouler, and neon bowl cuts at Marc Jacobs. The man does it everything with impeccable flair—giving the world grunge (an aesthetic he helped define in the ’90s with his work for Calvin Klein), glamor and all. He is also the gray master responsible for the hairstyles of the supermodel in George Michael’s movie “Freedom”! The ’90s video and concept head for “Savage Beauty,” Alexander McQueen’s Met retrospective (he was one of the designer’s longtime collaborators). In short, Palau doesn’t just do hair – it shapes its story.
If you ever have the pleasure of interviewing Kendall at a fashion show, know that you have to stick around to hear her explain the look you’re holding. Rather than shout about the chaos behind the scenes, the soft-spoken professional prefers to let her work do the talking. Sometimes it’s a graphic, neon eye (seen at Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2022 show) or a Snuffleupagus-level lash (flaunted at Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2021 extravaganza) that screams “Look. At. Me.” Other times, it’s a whisper of blush or a strategic swipe of sheer balm that delivers the perfect shade of polish. One thing that’s constant with Kendal’s look is fresh, glowing skin (which is quite a feat considering (given that models’ faces are painted and cleansed several times a day during NYFW.) Her signature combination of rose water spray, moisturizer, and concealer (strategically applied so it’s practically invisible) lets her shine even the most sleep-deprived supermodel.
For a long time, male designers ruled backstage at runway shows. Gilbert broke the boys’ club and paved the way for many women to follow in her footsteps. Born in France, she brings a certain I don’t know what on stage and weaves the dreams of stylists into the most incredible braids, plaits, braids and curls. In seasons past, Gilbert’s stunning looks at Rodarte made the show the hottest backstage ticket in town for beauty editors. She transforms scraps of fabric, orchids, roses, and even filler flowers (witnessed by the clouds of baby’s breath at the sisters’ Spring 2018 show) into the most exquisite hair accessories imaginable. It’s no wonder Sofia Coppola commissioned the pro to create Kirsten Dunst’s fantastic bouffants for her 2006 film. Marie Antoinette. Much like the French queen, Gilbert will go down in history—luckily, her decadent creations have nothing to do with cake.
Choi won her way into the hearts of fashion heavyweights (including photographer Steven Meisel and designer Marc Jacobs) with her warm personality, her incredible work ethic and, of course, her flawless manicures. Before the pro became the industry’s go-to for all things pro, she started biking to clients’ homes in New York City after immigrating from Korea with $400 in her pocket. Since then, she’s launched an eponymous nail polish line, opened four eponymous nail spas, and created looks for countless runway shows. Models like Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber, and Gisele Bündchen happily pose for #JINstagrams not only because Choi is a backstage legend, but because she’s possibly the kindest, most down-to-earth person in the biz. This season, keep an eye out for minimalist nail art and incredible manicurist colors at Michael Kors, Brandon Maxwell, Peter Do and Fendi.
Redway works with some of the biggest names on the red carpet – including Lupita Nyong’o, Tessa Thompson and Lucy Boynton – but her early career is rooted on the runway. Before landing shows with the likes of Christian Siriano and Fe Noel (both on her roster this season), the Jamaican-born designer assisted mainstays like Palau, Gilbert, Didier Malige and Eugene Soulemain. In fact, it was backstage at one of Palau’s shows when she realized her lightning-quick braiding skills (which she perfected at age 11 doing her classmates’ hair) set her apart from the part. other of his team. At the time, Redway was also one of the few professionals who could execute footage any hair type and texture – an aspect of the industry she has worked hard to change by advocating for more diversity behind the scenes and at every level of the fashion business. Redway told TZR, “I’m trying to make sure that before I leave the industry, I’ve created a safe space for other women of color to be able to perform at the same level, if not higher. that I and be able. to have respect and just take it easy.”
It’s not unusual to see a supermodel make a beeline for Pecheux’s coveted backstage seat. The French makeup artist doesn’t just apply makeup to one mannequin and move on to the next—he treats each catwalker to a facial massage that boosts their glow while easing any NYFW-induced stress. His calming presence (and sense of humor) is also appreciated by jaded reporters who take copious notes on his signature technique. For more than three decades, Pecheux has created some of the most unforgettable beauty moments, from Crayola-colored lids at Oscar de la Renta to gold-gilded ruby lips at Brandon Maxwell. No matter what the professional dreams up behind the scenes, positive vibes are always an essential part of the look. Pecheux told The Cut, “When someone leaves my chair, I want them to leave with good energy.”
Linda. Christy. Naomi. Amber. faith Sindi. Gisela. Karlie. Kendall. The list of one-name fashion wonders that Garren (another one-of-a-kind sensation) has transformed over the years is endless. The mane master is also responsible for some of Hollywood’s most influential hair moments, working with Farrah Fawcett, Audrey Hepburn, Madonna, Lady Gaga and Victoria Beckham. In addition to creating iconic looks for runway shows, designer campaigns and magazine covers, Garren also served as a mentor to other legendary coiffeurs, such as the late Oribe. When he appears backstage at Anna Sui (one of his longtime collaborators) during NYFW, it’s a rare opportunity to see one of the OGs work magic again.
Raised in an ashram, Westman wasn’t allowed to wear makeup at home — making it all the more attractive. After experiencing the forbidden fruit, which involved painting her classmates’ faces instead of her own, the makeup artist retreated. Eventually, her skills – refined at makeup schools in Paris and Los Angeles – caught the attention of celebrities. Vogue editor Grace Coddington, whose stamp of approval went a long way in the fashion world. Westman quickly became one of the most sought-after professionals, creating naturally radiant complexions (one of her signatures) at shows such as Oscar de la Renta, Brock Collection, Khaite and Rag & Bone. She channeled all of these behind-the-scenes experiences into an eponymous makeup line, Westman Atelier, giving everyone the chance to shine like a supermodel under the bright lights of NYFW. Pro is proof that breaking the rules has its benefits.
If Pecis isn’t taking calls from Chanel, Thom Browne, Altuzarra, Brock Collection or Gabriela Hearst, he’s probably surfing. The professor, who hails from Northern California, even produced a book (With noodles) that combines his passion for hair with his love of the ocean, whose proceeds go to Mission Blue to support marine conservation. In addition to creating intricate braids, dramatic updos and sea waves for the biggest names on the fashion circuit, Pecis advocates for the environment in an industry known for creating waste, calling on beauty brands and stylists to do better front of house and backstage. While many still consider him a member of the “New Guard,” at least when compared to many of the behind-the-scenes matches on this list, he’s already made quite a splash with his impressive work.
