On Tuesday evening, the Great Hall of Cipriani put its high society banquets on pause, transforming into a monumental destination for
Bright lights ushered in the entrance for the first round of looks, which included six ensembles punctuated by a monochrome beige tone and a subtle, versatile PUMA monogram. But after a taste of the collection, two oddball teams—one dressed in all-black looks and the other in monochromatic red—emerged from either side of the platform and suddenly erupted into an avant-garde dance battle under dim lights. Amidst the choreographed chaos, it became clear that their meeting on the runway was a foreshadowing of the line’s black and red sportswear iterations that were immediately dropped on the upcoming runway.
The jackets and sweatpants honored PUMA’s heritage, stamped with the track’s timeless T7 stripe and appliquéd with its iconic jumping motif. One model wore an oversized, helmet-inspired hat, nodding to the brand’s deep roots in athletics, and more showcased leather jacket and pant sets, chunky coats, voluminous hoodies, puffer vests and form-fitting bodysuits. The fashion spoke for itself, but when eight-time Olympic gold medalist Usain Bolt appeared on the runway wearing the brand’s signature black tuxedo with a dramatic train, PUMA’s high-calibre heritage in sports felt actualized unprecedentedly on its track.
“It’s pretty cool and I’ve never seen anything like it,” Bolt, the greatest sprinter of all time, told Hypebeast of his appearance. “Puma has been a big part of my life because it’s been 20 years since we first connected and they’ve helped me reach all corners of the world.”
Later, the expressive codes of downtown streetwear transitioned with the city’s penchant for premium fabrics through a series of creative, graphic-controlled silhouettes. Knitted sweaters carried lively character motifs in a multitude of colors, and jackets in multi-chromatic hues reminded viewers of the label’s youthful approach. Elsewhere, puffer jackets caught the eye in almost every colour, and leopard print made a subtle introduction to dresses, jackets and trousers.
A model then impressively balanced nine logo hats in several saturated tones, almost as if to symbolize the array of collaborations that then took the stage. Among them, Palomo Spain tweaked Puma’s sporty silhouettes with a genderless approach and a ’70s-inspired color story, while AC Milan commemorated the Paninari subculture through premium woven labels, personality-embossed patches and embroidered details.
Harlem’s own standout Dapper Dan created a capsule galvanized by the notion of pre-game style with an emphasis on luxe upcycling and knit materials. More importantly, the collaboration established its sartorial signature: logo mania, or, as he puts it, “the application of symbols that personify luxury.” Between a crystal-encrusted tutu boasting a “DDP” monogram and an abstract puffer jacket that turned two silhouettes into one, the line expertly showcased the convergence of sportswear and high fashion. For Dan, that tasteful crossover is “the best thing that could have happened to fashion.”
“It’s comfortable, accessible and allows for the creation of true classics,” he told Hypebeast.
The look below articulates PUMA’s penchant for experimentation, turning puffers into skirts, plastering metallic fabrications on sharp-shoulder jackets and using its signature logo as a centerpiece on a white body. For the finale, a model strutted down the runway in a puffy, beige jacket emblazoned with the brand’s logo on the back, cleverly offering a glimpse of what fashion’s distant future might look like.
“I want this concept to challenge the audience to be creative with their present as they envision what’s next,” said Ambrose, reflecting on her NYFW debut as the brand’s chief visionary. As the latest carousel made its rounds, the designer’s ambient aspiration found stark clarity, provoking viewers with the versatile and forward-thinking ethos that constitutes PUMA’s casual future.
Enjoy the PUMA FUTROGRADE in the gallery above.
In more fashion week news, Tommy Hilfiger confirms the cool prep factor for Fall 2022.
