As one of the UK’s most exciting rising female designers, FEBEN creates stylish and sexy womenswear for her community. Working to illuminate black women’s bodies, Feben Vemmenby now returns to the grounds of London Fashion Week to present her third collection under the NEWGEN group. For FW22, the designer decided to present a range filled with motifs of love and self-development. The presentation showcased FEBEN in a subtle light while maintaining a refined design language. Now, the designer presents her Spring/Summer 2023 collection, welcoming a range of menswear.
For FEBEN, SS23 was about looking within herself and within her catalog of work. On the other hand, it was FEBEN redefined and refined, filled with references to introspection influenced by previous seasons. Simultaneously, that of Georges Bataille History of the Eye — a novella described as centering around the “increasingly bizarre sexual perversions of a teenage couple in love, including an early depiction of omorashi fetishism in Western literature” — was subtly worked into the collection (see striped shirt blue and white) together Tarot card iconography as the devil, here it literally looks like a print on the front a mesh mini dress.
However, it was menswear that really got the industry talking. While we’ve seen pieces from the designer previously designed specifically for men, previously focusing on signatures like the high-waisted textured pants that were a derivative of FEBEN’s womenswear, this season offered a deeper understanding of men’s clothing.
As such, asymmetrical zip-up jackets gave formality to sleek printed tops, flared pants with front slits blurred the gender line, as did a black dress that was, at first glance, more like an elongated sweater vest complete with soft tips that scratched the fabric everywhere. The jacket collars were very frayed and the collars notched with punches, while the denim was given a textural makeover as it twisted around itself over the leg, looking something between distressed and leafy.
FEBEN’s SS23 collection can be seen in the gallery above. Stay tuned to Hypebeast for more London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 content as the week continues, and find more content on @HypebeastUK’s Instagram account.
In case you missed it, check out JW Anderson’s winning LFW collection.