“Fashion and TV have a very symbiotic relationship with storytelling. But away from the story, I always care about the look,” celebrity stylist Oluwatosin Ogundadegbe, popularly known as ‘The Style Infidel’, tells Quartz.
Globally, the fashion industry has a workforce of 60 million, according to the International Labor Organization (ILO) with the market being highly competitive and business owners looking for ways to be at the top of the demand food chain. Using the influential power of the Nigerian TV and film industry–a market which is estimated to grow to $903 million by 2023–opens a wider market for fashion brands with global streaming platforms such as Netflix, Amazon, Showmax, NdaniTv, Accelerate TV, Iroko TV and others.
Stylists and costume designers are an integral part of any successful film. When they don’t get the job done well, there’s a disconnect between the characters on screen and the role they’re playing. However, beyond this entertainment, there is a need to influence consumer purchasing behavior. Hence, the push for product placement.
There has been a meteoric rise of both industries, with television and film and fashion professionals working together. “I think we’ve seen an evolution in terms of costumes matching the themes of film and TV production,” says Pinaman Owusu-Banahene, founder of Adjoaa, a fashion e-commerce platform with a focus on sustainable African fashion. “I see there’s been a huge evolution in bringing fashion to TV and film, and vice versa,” she adds.
Nigerian stylists and designers are supporting television and film collaborations
“I remember when I wore Adesua [Etomi] with a dress that went for a certain amount at the time,” says Ogundadegbe. “The minute Adesua wore it and it became a sensation, the price went up four times the original sale price.”
Nigerian movies like Blood sisters, Smart money women, The King of Boys: The return of the Oba, all currently streaming on Netflix, have caused quite a stir not only for the high-quality production and stellar acting, but also for the haute couture and costumes. “For example with Smart money woman where a certain person wore a particular piece, the piece sold,” says Ogundadegbe. “So, one way or another, there’s always a space for collaboration. [However], questions like ‘how do you pay both parties?’ must be asked.”
Adeyemi Olowu, founder and creative director for HRH Luxury, a Lagos-based fashion brand that has worked on some of the designs for Netflix Blood sisters mini-series, says “People know me more for my works with Blood sisters, and refer to them when looking for work. For my brand, it’s been a success.”
In addition to the kind of viewership afforded to designers to be on major television platforms, for some, there is increased revenue. Through this, HRH Luxury has increased its profit margin, even beyond its domestic clientele. “It’s not just about Africa for us, now. People are now calling from Canada, the UK and the US,” says Olowu.
E-commerce platforms and retailers say there is a potential market
E-commerce plays a vital role in the intersection of television and film with fashion. With the globalization of the Nigerian fashion industry and seeing how Nigerian TV and movies are gaining global support from platforms like Netflix, Amazon and Showmax, just to name a few, there is a growing demand from those in the West, with one of the ways good to ensure demand is electronic commerce.
Aderonke ‘Ade’ Ajose-Adeyemi, founder of Losode, a digital marketplace that connects African fashion lovers with brands in sub-Saharan Africa, tells Quartz: “From a business perspective, synergy and partnership [between these two industries] it makes sense.” Referring to Losode’s work with NACK Apparels, a casual wear brand that has been a longtime sponsor of the Nigerian TV show, Big Brother Naija. “We’re always looking for exciting brands with a potential market, and although we don’t focus 100% in TV and film, there’s an impact there.”
This is why it is important to arouse the interest and recognition of a consumer when working on costumes for films. “It’s a huge cultural export especially because Nollywood is the biggest movie industry after Hollywood,” says Owusu-Banahene. “Nigerians have too much pride in selling themselves, and this translates into consumerism. That’s why you see a key personality wear something [on screen]and it can shift the conversation not just from buying to people wanting to own it.”
Increasing viewers’ interest in Nigerian fashion
Nigerian fashion and costume designers have one important question in mind when it comes to working with TV shows or movies: Does visibility translate into sales? “The assessment is good. It’s good for positioning and brand recognition, but how are you monetizing it?” Ogundadegbe say.
Eze Emmanuel Chukwudi is a brand consultant and personal shopper who spends most of his free time styling and working on his Jumia fashion store where he sells men’s accessories. He owns Stylefidence image makeover brand and talks about how TV and film have influenced his purchase. “Whenever I see someone with great style in a movie, it naturally catches my attention. Stealth advertising is also a great way to pique consumer interest. It is when the actors [members] wear clothes and distribute subtly with other castes [members] who styled them and what they wear as the film goes on.”
For Owusu-Banahene, another great way to spark consumer interest in designs is to credit clients/stylists, or take viewers behind the scenes after the film is finished. “Crediting designers is a good way to influence purchases. There may also be promotional campaigns leading up to the film’s release,” she says.
