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For Saint Laurent, black is not just a color, but a two-sided symbol of sophistication and brand identity. But when you use mostly just one color to express each passing collection, innovation remains quite tricky because you can’t hide behind drama or fantasy fiction. It simply, simply has to have great clothes, and that’s a feat that Anthony Vaccarello’s Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection for Saint Laurent pulls off with flair.
Housed in the Paris Bourse de Commerce Collection museum, attendees should have left the show with a primal feeling – an overwhelming and timeless fascination. Dressed almost entirely in black, with the exception of off-white, beige, camel and grey, the collection was a true showcase of not only Vaccarello’s design chops, but also the forward direction of garment design. for men. Exaggerated bows that have long been a versatile design detail for women’s wear made their way to the tops of the collection crafted in supple silks. The same attention to refined yet dignified clothing was evident in the other tops lined with breasted silk chiffon in shades of black, white and soft beige.
Alongside blouses, floor-hugging overcoats showcased Vaccarello’s vision of classic luxury. Some overcoats heralded ultra sharp shoulders, while others were more relaxed along with extensive jacket detailing – appearing in wool, cashmere, mohair, smooth leather and shiny patent leather fabrications. Elsewhere in the collection were hooded pieces, turtleneck knit tunics and paneled trousers.
The beauty of Vaccarello’s latest version is that it remained unmistakably clean – where fluidity was a hallmark and clean clothing was always the primary goal.
Take a look at Saint Laurent’s FW23 menswear collection in the gallery and video above.
Elsewhere in fashion, EGONlab. digs deep into the French flare of the night for FW23.
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