Paris. Milan. New York. Los Angeles: all the fashion hotspots. Could Aurora be a newcomer to the scene?
This is a serious question for Skye Barker Maa and Lisa Ramfjord Elstun. The women come from different backgrounds and experiences, but they found each other through their mutual passion for fashion. They are now building a business designed to help Colorado designers on their paths to success.
The women hope Barker Maa’s small-batch production in Aurora will provide young and emerging local designers the opportunity to grow their businesses and create full-time jobs for the professionals who sew the clothes featured in racks and tracks.
The key is in the name: “Small Batch”. Designers can work with local tailors and tailors to get what they need without having to set a huge rule.
“You go to (Los Angeles) and they say, ‘Well, we don’t do less than 100. We don’t do less than 400.’ You can come to us and we’ll literally do five,” he said. Barker Maa. “Designers don’t quite know what will sell and what won’t. They really need small samples of what they’re doing in order to get their feet wet and be profitable.”
Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Post
Skye Barker Maa, creator and founder of design workshop Factory Fashion, poses for a portrait outside her studio in Aurora on August 2, 2022.
Darlene Ritz is the creative director and founder of DCR Studios. The Denver designer is one of Small Batch Manufacturing’s first customers, working with them on clothes she plans to take to an event in Paris.
“I can’t produce the 500 parts I need to do production elsewhere,” Ritz said. “Working with a small manufacturer like Skye and Lisa gives me the opportunity to make 50 pieces of a specific garment and see how well it sells.”
Ramfjord Elstun, founder of the Denver Fashion Design Center and a co-founder of the Denver Design Incubator, said the idea of having a place that would produce small runs “has been in the works for a while.” Although there are professional plumbers working with Colorado designers, Ramfjord Elston wants to expand the options for designers. And the consultant wants to help develop the skills of Barker Maa’s staff.
“That’s why I’m staying here after I’ve put all the infrastructure in place,” said Ramfjord Elstun. “I want to raise the skill level of this group and learn the couture type skill set so that we can be on the shelf with Parisian designers and designers from Milan.
“It’s the technical skills of whoever sews the clothes that really bring the designer’s ideas to life,” she added.
Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Post
Left to right: Malik Phillips, Geli Hayes, Heidi Bowden, Karla Palma and Najibullah Dowrankhil are newly hired sewers and aspiring fashion designers who will work at Small Batch Manufacturing in Aurora, pictured Aug. 2, 2022. Sewers once hired you will work with local designers from Stratton Robe Co., Latin Fashion Week Colorado and DCR Studios to sew their clothing lines.
Projecting a dream
The first five people hired to sew the clothes gathered for their second day of work last week. Right now, their workshop is housed in part of a building that houses Factory Five Five, an arts organization started by Barker Maa.
After Labor Day, employees will move into a large space in the nearby Stanley Market, where Barker Maa runs the Fashion Factory, a design workshop and sewing school.
Barker Maa, who has worked in politics, marketing and advertising, started a music school in 2012. Last week, she announced the sale of the business, Neighborhood Music School, to streamline her operations as she prepares for the official launch of Small Series Production.
Barker Maa said one of her goals in starting the new business was to offer full-time work with benefits and opportunities for employees to work on their own patterns.
“There’s concern about how the sewers work and how they’re treated and the environment they’re in because historically it hasn’t been good,” Barker Maa said.
Barker Maa and Ramfjord Elstun said they are determined to create high quality products while promoting a workplace that is enjoyable. They were willing to offer on-the-job training to talented newbies, but found people with varying experience.
One of the new workers is longtime tailor Najibullah Dowrankhil, an Afghan refugee who worked with the U.S. military for several years in his home country. “This is perfect,” said Ramfjord Elstun, holding up a shirt he had made.
Dowrankhil is deaf and dumb. His wife communicates with him through sign language and will be with him at work. The tailor signed with his wife, who told translator Binazira Arman that her husband is excited to work with many different styles and clothes.
Small Batch Manufacturing is Heidi Bowden’s chance to get back into fashion. After earning a degree in the field, she worked for the Colorado Ballet and most recently for an armor company where she operated heavy duty sewing machines.
“I learned a lot about Kevlar,” Bowden said.
People with similar backgrounds are sewing backpacks or tents, Barker Maa said. “They are designers by trade and they want to sew fashion and they want to sew for other designers, but the jobs that have been available have been outdoor gear or car seats or mattresses.
“Being able to bring them back to what they really want to do within the industry makes sense,” added Barker Maa.
Without formal training or a degree, Angelica “Geli” Hayes had trouble finding sewing jobs. She taught herself to sew and designed pieces for two shows.
“Skye is one of the first to open her doors and say, ‘Come as you are, come with what you know and we’ll work on it,'” Hayes said.
Working with Small Batch will be Karla Palma’s first sewing outfit. Palma attended Colorado State University and has been sewing professionally for about six years while designing on the side.
“I love how different we all are and come from different backgrounds,” Palma said. “It’s going to be great, not just for us, but for the company as a whole.”
Malik Phillips underwent a sort of practice audition for the position. He met Ramfjord Elstun through a class he took at Factory Fashion. “I think she saw my passion,” the 21-year-old said.
The staff is expected to continue to grow, with possibly two more on board soon. The team has projects lined up and will get even busier as the fall edition of Denver Fashion Week approaches, Nov. 12-20. Denver Latin Fashion Week opens on September 23rd.
“We’re the team set up, making sure we can get the ball rolling and have everything in place before we start adding more to our family,” Bowden said.
Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Post
Sewer stylist and aspiring fashion designer Geli Hayes looks at some of the clothes she designed at Small Batch Manufacturing in Aurora on Aug. 2, 2022.
Made in Colorado
In addition to giving freelance designers more flexibility, Small Batch is more accessible, said DCR Studios’ Ritz. She can visit with the team about her parts and can see the working conditions up close.
“I insist on being consistent and ethical. I’m not willing to have my stuff made in sweatshops,” Ritz said.
When Ritz has items made overseas, she said she makes sure the manufacturers are certified to meet certain workplace and environmental requirements.
Ramfjord Elstun said some of her customers over the years have asked for more local manufacturing choices because they want a made-in-Colorado label on their work.
Jordan Stratton, owner of Stratton Robe Co. based in Colorado, said in a statement that it’s about quality, being close to where the clothes are made and knowing you’re working with the right people. “Why would I have something made in China if I can make it here?”
Locally made clothes help designers avoid some of the supply chain disruptions that have increased during the pandemic, Ritz said. Leftover materials can be used for other items instead of ending up in landfills.
More home-grown options for designers will also empower the growing fashion community, Ritz said. After earning her fashion degree, Ritz, who grew up in Denver, worked in New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo and Toronto.
“What was really great about coming back to this community was seeing how much the creative arts and creative industries had grown in the 20 years that I’d been gone and how much vibrancy there was,” Ritz said. “We’re seeing more of the things that we wouldn’t see in the big markets.”
