The New Wave of Jeans – WWD


Denim shorts, 90s skater jeans, creative shapes and remixes on the Canadian tuxedo were some of the key styles that took the runway denim trend to new heights.

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who are seen as fashion oracles in some circles, predict that denim shorts, jeans and an assortment of Canadian tuxedos will be must-have items come next spring. Prada said the collection was “about clothes that people could actually wear”. Simons echoed that he was also drawn to “the idea of ​​’normal’ clothing” that is transformed through “different materializations” and through the mixing of classic garments in new configurations. There is nothing more “normal” than a pair of jeans, and their collection pushed this look of the norm into a sleek social concept.

What’s not to love about the idea of ​​free time? Silvia Venturini Fendi, inspired by the spirit of leisure, injected it throughout her spring collection. “We are coming back to life and taking back control of our time. So this is a collection dedicated to this desire for free time, because we have all discovered that we like to spend it cultivating ourselves and our interests,” said Fendi.

Driven by this carefree attitude, the collection presented an elevated and luxurious take on classic pieces, where denim was the star. Backstage, Fendi said that denim is “the fabric that for me best represents this feeling of freedom.” Bermuda shorts, 90s cargo pants, Canadian tuxedos and a range of accessories were created from distressed denim with various washes and aging techniques, channeling a cool vibe while adding an artisanal edge.

One of the kings of runway denim right now, Glenn Martens, pulls double duty as creative director of Diesel, which he’s reviving with a Y2K aesthetic while running his celebrity-beloved brand YProject. For the latter, his cerebral approach to denim construction continues to redefine ways of looking at denim wear, with his twisted constructions. For his spring collection, the intellectual exploration continued with distressed denim, open-collar denim jackets and playful trompe-l’oeil prints. “We really try to invite our customers to enjoy the clothing and the play and play with it,” Martens said backstage.

MSGM, JW Anderson and Études were some of the brands that also played with creative denim ideas, such as tie-dye jeans, blended Canadian tuxedos and service-inspired denim uniforms. This American classic is once again a hot runway item – but it’s anything but classic this time.





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