Tory Burch’s secret show and other fashion week highlights from Day 5

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ANGELA WEISS

The rehearsal of the Tory Burch show was short, but magical, and it SHOW SHOW ended with Sydney Sweeney driving a small car. Elsewhere, we saw platform Crocs, a sleeping bag mini dress, a dystopian take on Gen Z on green screens and more. Read on for some of the moments we’re still thinking about from New York Fashion Week Day 5.

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There is this Greek myth about Eos, the goddess of the dawn. She wraps herself in living wool spun by the Heliads, daughters of the sun, and as the loose threads of her cape are tangled by the wind, she creates a sunrise that unravels each morning. Peter Do did something similar to this look, but he’s a very strict tailor, so nothing will work out. (Except my heart.)

There’s been a ton of denim on denim this fashion week, but Rentrayage’s Erin Beatty is doing it the best how: With zero-waste practices, entirely recycled materials and a really keen sense of how clothes shouldn’t just be worn – they should be worn in. Here’s a double denim combo for the hippie romantics out there, though with Ferragamo packs and an oversized black blazer, those pants could have a second life sipping Odeon martinis with a Knopf VP.

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Ariel deconstructed in Jonathan Simkhai

She wants to be where the people are! We are absolutely here for it The little mermaid color tribute, which gathers aqua reds, teal and navy in one perfect style snack. With a look like that, you have to kiss the girl. (With her enthusiastic consent, of course.)

Gabriela Hearst often digs into the past when designing her line—this time, she named works by the ancient Greek poet Sappho (570 BC), sculptor Imi Knoebel (1968) and Pastor Shirley Caesar (1988). She is also weaving past and future together in her clothes by using 35% dead fabric (aka fabric that has already been made and stored but never used) to reduce her carbon footprint. Can innovation exist without new things? Of course – just look at her line.

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Second Stealth Show at Tory Burch

Tory Burch’s fashion shows are often a disappointment, and this one was no exception. (We fell hard for the strappy tops and glitter-dusted lids, maybe we’re black and blue.) But there was actually a show within a show at Tory Burch, and it was hours before Sydney Sweeney took it. front row seat. That’s when the models learned the runway and practiced it in matching Tory Sport pants and jackets. It all only took a few minutes, but the photos are stunning, as fashion dream girls like Lineisy Montero and Vittoria Ceretti become a tangle of long limbs, tousled hair and tangerine flower power. I didn’t want one of these tracksuits before today, but I sure do now. Burch, as usual, is as much a marketing genius as he is a style oracle. Register for all Embrace Ambition Summits; clearly, there are many to learn!

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The only search in Adaem

Is everyone okay, or should we be talking about the pastel patent leather croc platforms at Adeam?! Deep breaths. We can get through this together.

Speaking of Sydney Sweeney, here she is driving herself outside the Burch show in a small beach cruiser. The moment was captured by Martin Romero, who is quickly becoming one of our favorite NYFW photographers thanks to the sheer joy he takes in freeze-framing.

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No screen time on Brandon Maxwell

“While we understand you’re using your mobile device for work,” reads a note on the seats at Brandon Maxwell, “we also encourage you to turn it off to enjoy the show.” There was plenty to enjoy – beautiful cut-out dresses, holographic tops and a denim and sequin moment – so hopefully Mr Maxwell can excuse us for spending some time on Instagram. (We also appreciated its soundtrack of chirping birds and forest sounds, which have been proven to lower blood pressure. Given the traffic on Adventure Six today, we really needed.)

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A lot of screen time in Maisie Wilen

There’s a kind of tech anxiety creeping into youth culture. You can see it at industry, where the constant ping of a cell phone can only mean doom. You can see it at Bodies Bodies Bodies, where Instagram reveals a literal killer. And you saw it – at least, I did – at Maisie Wilen, where models gathered behind a green screen covered in runes, and space photos and pixels on their faces, ready to transform from the girl in the GIF. It’s a clever call for attention from Wilen, a Gen Z girl who can really hold her own creative turf.

Left: Zendaya in Loewe by JW Anderson, 2021
Middle: A harness at Bevza
Right: Opening shot of Gabriela Hearst

Think our protective instincts are on trend, don’t you? (And, according to literally every news station, with good reason.)

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The People-Watching (or Is He People, Watching?) in Adam Lippes

New York is a moving picture book, and it turns a million pages a minute. Fashion Week fixture Adam Lippes knows this, so he roped himself off Liberty Plaza and asked his girls to walk the streets of the city. There were sharp poplin shirts and scarlet and tulle sheaths, all set against the steel-on-stone backdrop of Hudson Harbour. In true Big Apple form, some onlookers gasped…and some glanced up, then went back to the Wordle game. A moment, surely.

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Bosideng Parachute Party Dress Up

I’m not quite sure what’s going on with this Bosideng Puffer Sleeping Bag Mini Corset, but it’s nice to see this era’s most persistent trends—corsets, athleisure, and apocalypse lapels—somehow distilled into a sweet little dress. It’s like Ariana Grande going to Burning Man.

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Royal Puma Tenenbaum

Legendary designer June Ambrose turned the Puma runway into a show me this biopic cast of characters, including a battle dance crew, a clique of grunge girls and a bride and groom (played by Winnie Harlow and Usain Bolt). But it was this mix of Richie and Margot Tenenbaum that tugged at my heartstrings. Also, let’s be real, a Puma camel blazer is pretty genius. (They’ll be doing sneaker packs next season, too.)

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