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Fashion week often focuses on the future, but designers in New York are going nostalgic this season, with echoes of the 00s and 90s ringing the Big Apple.
Fendi kicked off the first day of fashion week with an anniversary show celebrating 25 years of Baguette. The original It bag became popular in 2000 when Sex and the City’s Sarah Jessica Parker as Carrie Bradshaw was forced at gunpoint to hand over her purple quilted version. “Give me your bag,” shouts the robber. “It’s a Baguette!” cries Carrie.
In homage to the Baguette’s legacy, Fendi womenswear artistic director Kim Jones invited friends of the fashion house, including Marc Jacobs and Parker, to present their interpretation of the shoulder bag at a star-studded event. On the same day, Gen Z-beloved Marc Jacobs branch Heaven launched a campaign featuring ’90s TV stars like Baywatch’s Pamela Anderson and Twin Peaks’ Kyle MacLachlan.
On Sunday night, Tommy Hilfiger will return to town after a three-year hiatus. Hilfiger, who dominated the scene in the 90s, said: “This is where fashion, art, music and entertainment all came together when I started … It’s the perfect expression of what we stand for as we pay homage to our roots. “
Throughout the pandemic, millennials and Gen Z have embraced late ’90s nostalgia, and that devotion shows no sign of abating. Emily Gordon-Smith, from trend analysis agency Stylus, has been tracking the trend. “It’s growing even more and becoming more nuanced,” she says. “For the younger set it seems like those decades were better and simpler times.”
The 90’s theme is everywhere in New York. On newsstands, W magazine celebrates its 50th anniversary with issues starring ’90s models Cindy Crawford, Iman and Shalom Harlow. In billboards, Kate Moss’ daughter Lila appears in a Calvin Klein campaign, 30 years after Moss first modeled for the brand, while Jerry Seinfeld fronts a campaign for streetwear brand Kith. On screen, Sex and the City spin-off And Just Like That… has been re-commissioned, such is the appetite for its high drama and even higher heels.
There is also a noticeable shift towards simpler silhouettes. British designer Roland Mouret, who has dressed everyone from the Duchess of Cambridge to Beyoncé in his signature bodycon dresses, is having a resurgence. After entering administration in 2020, his label was bought by the SP Collection group. Up the road, Zara has launched a collaboration with ’90s designer Narciso Rodriguez. Known for his slip and sheath dresses, he dug into his archives to bring minimalism to the masses.
The trend is also visible in the next generation of designers. Take Conner Ives and Miss Sohee, who are both part of The Vanguard, one –initiative by Net-a-Porter aimed at championing and supporting young talent. Fitted silhouettes and sparkling crystals feature heavily in their designs. Their references? The Y2K era in which they grew up.
Social networks are behind this trend. While previous generations had to wait to see their favorite celebrities in magazines, Gen Zs have an archive at their fingertips, helping them create nostalgic edits, with a string of Instagram accounts like @90sanxiety. Think Polaroid photos of the Spice Girls and pap shots of Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston. Used sites like Depop have created a wave of sellers that appeal to this group as well. Some specialize in Y2K labels such as Blumarine, Morgan and Kookaï.
With brands trying to juggle issues such as sustainability, Gordon-Smith says there’s often less time for creativity. “Nostalgia touchpoints are light design cues. Even places like Zara can look through their archives and revive pieces. There are so many avenues that brands and consumers can explore, it’s a complete nostalgia alert.”
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