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New York Fashion Week (NYFW) may be over, but we’re still thinking about art: Tommy Hilfiger created his Andy Warhol-like Factory, Ulla Johnson took inspiration from the works of Louise Bourgeois and Lee Krasner, and Marni put on spotlight on an emerging Italian artist as she made her NYFW debut under the Manhattan Bridge. Here are our highlights from the spring-summer 2023 shows.
Tommy Hilfiger
Warhol superstar Donna Jordan walks Tommy Factory’s tin-covered runway. Photo: Thomas Concordia/Getty Images.
After a three-year hiatus, the American brand returned to NYFW with Tommy Factory, a “figital” world inspired by Andy Warhol’s Factory, complete with a tin-covered catwalk and Mylar balloons (IRL and AR) modeled after “Silver ” of the artist. Clouds” at Skyline Drive-In in Brooklyn. The show was streamed live on Roblox, featuring men’s, women’s and gender-bending styles created with British designer Richard Quinn and featuring a new TH Monogram from illustrator Fergus Purcell, all available for purchase in real-time. Warhol prefers Bob Colacello, first interview Magazine editor and actress-model Donna Jordan walked the real-world runway alongside Julia Fox, Lila Moss, Precious Lee and Hari Nef, while a metaverse show featured Superplastic avatars Janky, Guggimon and Dayzee. Of course, there was NFT swag.
Ulla Johnson
Courtesy of Ulla Johnson.
For her spring-summer 2023 collection, the New York-based designer turned to nature and art – specifically, Louise Bourgeois’ fabric works and Lee Krasner’s abstract expressionist paintings. The result was a multi-colored and textured presentation—think shibori silk twill splits, as well as floral crochet and hand-knitted netting in shades of purple, pink, orange, and cerulean—among sculptural installations of lichens and flowers. giant in bloom.
Latta Corner House
Photo: John Lamparski/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows.
As harpist Mary Lattimore played in El Jardín del Paraíso’s community garden, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta paid tribute to artist Matthew Underwood, a friend of Latta’s who passed away in 2019. “He was a printer, someone who I had a creative dialogue with; printing on textiles was like part of an experiment,” the designer told Vogue Runway. Underwood’s landscapes and still lifes adorned a range of colorful and metallic knit tops and dresses, appearing both figurative and abstract.
Get it
Courtesy of Marni.
For its New York debut—not to mention its first show outside of Milan—the Italian fashion house set up a cobblestone runway under the Manhattan Bridge. Creative director Francesco Risso took inspiration from young Milan- and London-based artist Flaminia Veronesi, whose fantastical watercolors and sculptural works were translated into silk dresses, crop tops and semi-transparent knit shorts and shirts , as well as large denim. colorful circular print pants. Risso also played cello with the Brooklyn String Orchestra, which performed an original composition by Dev Hynes to accompany the show (subway trains overhead notwithstanding).
Dolls and Dolls
Courtesy of Dolls and Dolls.
At the National Arts Club, artist-turned-designer Carly Mark combined several seemingly disparate inspirations that speak (with a surreal sense of humor) to her life in New York: Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes closedthe night life of the city and the terrifying 19th-century illustrations of the French artist Gustave Doré for Dantes hell. The resulting mix included lamé evening gowns in a flame-like ombre, stretch lace and sheer mesh lingerie, tropical fur suits, resin chocolate chip cookie themes and handbags, bananas, telephones and demons.
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