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I’ve been hearing a lot lately about the problems with the fashion industry – especially fast fashion. For starters, did you know that the fashion industry is responsible for 8%-10% of global carbon emissions and almost 20% of wastewater? And that’s just scratching the surface.
It has recently been reported that some clothing from fast fashion brand Shein contains unhealthy levels of lead, and many garment workers around the world work in dangerous conditions for less than a living wage.
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The more I learn about how the fashion industry works, the more I want to change my habits. But I have a lot of questions and I’m on a budget so I could really use some guidance.
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I also understand that it is a privilege to be able to say “no more” to fast fashion. For many people, these brands are often the most accessible or affordable option.
My intention is never to shame other consumers; instead, we should all focus on holding brands accountable and demanding that they do better.
To find answers to my questions about becoming a more ethical fashion consumer, I interviewed Katrina Caspelich, Director of Marketing at Remake, a 501(c)3 non-profit organization that fights for climate justice and fair wages in the fashion industry. clothes.
Before we get into all the nitty-gritty, it’s helpful to define a few terms. First, what exactly is sustainable fashion?
Katrina says sustainable fashion is pretty much what it sounds like. “Sustainable fashion usually means eco-friendly practices in the fashion industry, referring to the approach to design, production, AND wearing clothes that respect the planet causing little or no harm, and therefore preserving the environment.”
And she says recycling, reusing and upcycling old clothes are other great sustainable practices we can engage with no matter where we shop.
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And how do you define ethical fashion?
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Ethical fashion is a bit harder to define because it can mean different things to different people. “Many fashion brands simply define ethical production as respecting local labor laws,” explains Katrina. “In remake we know that’s not good enough because our clothes are often made in places where labor laws are weak and enforcement is even weaker.”
She says it’s important to look at the whole picture, and not just take brands at their word when they say they’re ethical. “Instead of asking, ‘Doesn’t this product harm the people who made it,’ we reframe the question to ask, “Does this product make the people who do it better?” Ethical to us means brands committed to treating their producers with fairness, respect and care.”
Additionally, it also considers sustainability when determining whether a brand is ethical. “For us, brands can’t be truly sustainable unless they’re also ethical, and vice versa. After all, what good is organic cotton if it’s harvested with slave labor? And what good is a garment worker’s living wage if her body is threatened by toxins released during the sourcing and manufacturing processes?”
Recently, brands like H&M have been accused of greenwashing. What does green washing mean?
Katrina says greenwashing is when brands market their products in a way that makes them seem too environmentally friendly, when in reality they are anything but. “It’s common for fashion companies to use sustainability to differentiate themselves in the market and appeal to socially conscious customers (like us!) without actually engaging.”
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Let’s say you come across a fashion brand that gives off a “sustainable and ethical” vibe. How can you tell if they are legit or just a wash?
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Katrina recommends taking a deep dive into their website to see if they can back up their green image with actual facts. She suggests asking questions like: “Is the brand using language that is difficult to understand? Does it avoid using detailed language around the topic of sustainability? Does the brand use language in a way that markets itself as concerned for the environment and society without providing detailed statistics and information to support it?”
And she says you can also tell a lot by analyzing their marketing and social media presence. “Is the brand using generic nature images or stock images to describe their sustainability, or are they using images of their actual sourcing and production practices? Do they show you images of men and women making their products on their website?”
The bottom line: If a company’s commitment to ethical fashion and sustainability seems a little vague, they’re probably lying to you. Legitimate ethical brands will usually have the hard facts of where their products are sourced and manufactured on their website.
Many more ethical fashion brands unfortunately cost too much to be truly accessible to many people. What are some more affordable ways we can change our fashion habits?
Katrina suggests a number of ways we can reduce our fashion impact, such as shopping second-hand at thrift stores and online using sites like thredUP and Poshmark (which I personally like because I can filter for items in my size ).
She also advocates clothing swaps, renting clothes, and rediscovering items we haven’t worn in a while. “The most sustainable wardrobe is the one we already have,” she says.
Another way we can make a difference is simply by buying less and wearing what we buy for longer. “It’s no secret that a lot of used clothes end up in landfills. That’s unfortunate, but you can do something about it. Remember, the longer we can keep our clothes in use, the more we stay out landfills.”
And if you really want to step things up, she even has a challenge for you. “Get #NoNewClothes promise and refrain from buying new clothes for three full months. The act of committing to not buying new clothes will help you reset your relationship with fashion and evaluate your consumption habits.”
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On the other hand, we can assume that all brands with a higher price are giving us better products that are made more ethically. But are they really?
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Katrina says absolutely not. “Designer clothing has come down the market to keep up with fast fashion and increasingly the materials are not of good quality and, if mixed with polyester, are bad for the planet. Furthermore, just because something costs more does not says that women within the supply chain are paid more”.
A big red flag in her book is the lack of transparency designer brands have about sustainability and labor practices. “Designer brands are extremely opaque in their supply chains, even more so than some high street brands. So they’re not paying people better and they’re not reducing their carbon footprint either.”
What advice do you have for people who want to start building a more ethical wardrobe?
So first of all, Katrina advises people looking to transition to a more ethical wardrobe to go slow – and not get rid of all your old fast fashion pieces. You already have them, so getting the most out of those items is the sustainable thing to do.
Here are some more tips from Katrina:
“• Ask yourself if you would wear something 30 times before buying it. If not, it is better to leave.
• Taking stock of what you own. The best way to practice sustainability is to shop your closet before you buy anything new.
• Check for vintage, rental or consignment options before buying anything new. One of my favorite things to do is “shop” my sister’s closet (with clearance, of course).
• Care for your clothes. Preloved clothes last, so try to wash them cold, dry them, dry clean them and fix them.
• Investment in quality and not quantity.“
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And finally, are there ways we can make a difference outside of changing our buying habits?
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Katrina says it’s important to hold brands accountable, which we can do by raising awareness and simply not giving them our hard-earned money. “Part of promoting change within the fashion industry means holding brands accountable—even if they’re your long-time favorites. Many popular brands that consumers know and love are violating human rights in daily basis.
For example, Levi’s has refused to sign the International Agreement, a life-saving agreement that prioritizes the safety of garment workers within brands’ supply chains. Hard to understand, isn’t it? However, it is vital that we vote with our dollars and let these brands know that we will not support them until they start acting ethically.”
What are your thoughts on sustainable fashion? Sound off in the comments!
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