Chris and Kyle Barkman have deep roots in hospitality. He is a certified sommelier who has worked in wine distribution for many years, she studied at the California Culinary Academy and was a top-notch event manager—and their combined skills are at Uncorked Tahoe, a wine bar and shop with four locations. One of them is one of the best restaurants in the region.
Kel (left) and Chris (right) Barkman, co-owners of Uncorked Tahoe, at their downtown track. … [+]
I caught up with the convivial couple and their adorable son, Jack, in Truckee one weekday morning before opening up to discuss what makes their business so successful.
The aesthetic of the place is friendly and inviting, serious but never overbearing, and I immediately noticed a few of my favorite imports on the shelves – Cru Beaujolais and a Corsican classic that I’ve loved for years. These bottles gave me a hint of the Simpatico palette, and I was intrigued to find out more.
Cru Beaujolais, featured on the Uncorked Tahoe shelf by Kermit Lynch.
In the year Founded in 2007, the couple’s flagship in the Olympic Valley is still going strong, with locations from downtown Trekkie, Tahoe City and Northstar Village, the latter named Petra, a Mediterranean restaurant like no other. The place has a casual vibe with light, serious food.
Chris says his experience on the sales side helps him choose wines for his stores, each with a somewhat different seasonal lineup. It is not interested in representatives of wines randomly sampled without knowing anything about the Uncorked model. Instead, they develop flavors based on a deep knowledge of both the wine industry and their customers’ tastes. But most importantly, he invites the members of the staff to participate in the taste that ultimately decides what will be on the list. This is one of the many reasons the company has a low staff turnover rate – staff are encouraged to participate in ongoing wine education and participate in the conversation about what quality looks like.
The three main qualities you look for in every wine Barkmans offers are balance, variety (that the wine truly represents the source) and solid delivery for the price point. The staff then taste the wine and discuss it in focus sessions where everyone from novice to expert has a voice. Let’s say that this is not the usual model of making decisions for most shops to buy wine, but it pays for employees to buy and own and take pride in their work.
Kel’s management model should not micro-manage employees, a culture of mutual respect and responsibility is essential. At the height of the outbreak, when a brusque customer walks in and a manager asks her not to move furniture, the customer complains to Chris and stands by the employee, letting the customer know that she did something for everyone’s benefit. Security terms. The employee says she’s “never felt more supported by a boss,” and that kind of narrative carries a lot of weight in a consumer-driven environment where, perversely, “the customer is always right.” Standing by the crew, trusting them to make the right decisions, was critical to the success of Uncorked Tahoe in the most difficult of times.
Dinner at Petra: Homemade hummus, corn salsa, and both soft and crusty pita bread, from … [+]
Unsparing is also common when it comes to what’s on the shelves and served by the glass in the bar. Chris says his three main importers are Kermit Lynch, Louis Dresner and Rosenthal Wine Merchant, all companies with established organizational history and reputations backing them. Don’t come here looking for overcooked cult Napa cabs. You’re more likely to find a little-known low-alcohol red from Chile, a classic Champagne or an under-the-radar Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley.
I popped into Petra for dinner one night and was delighted to find a corn salad with feta, homemade hummus and a beautifully prepared mahi mahi caponata, which went perfectly with an Austrian Riesling in a glass chosen by Kell. Chef Matthew Turner’s cooking has a simplicity that blends well with the Barkmans’ signature style.
Good taste and good business come together and Uncorked Tahoe is the kind of company I want to support, now more than ever. Be sure to stop by next time you’re in Tahoe – for a glass of wine and a few bottles to take home.
