Brooklyn Fashion House Merlette Channels Art Deco Vibes for Fall 2022


Marina Cortbawi founded Brooklyn-based Atelier Merlette in 2016 and has steadily built the fashion brand into a successful business by focusing on quality, carefully designed clothing that her clients seek as lifetime investments.

Now in its sixth year, Merlette has grown without outside investors, and retailers including Matches, Saks and Nordstrom now carry the brand. Direct-to-consumer sales increased by 40% in 2021.

And while the prices are higher than you’ll find at fast fashion chains across the country, we’re talking quality over quantity, less better, and a much lower cost than luxury brands often rely on. name recognition.

Cortbawi is committed to responsible manufacturing and practice – clothing is ethically made in India by artisans who are paid fair wages in safe environments. It uses only natural fibers including Supima cotton produced in mills that meet OEKO-TEX certifications.

This summer, the brand introduced Merlette Collection 12 for Pre-Fall 2022, which Cortbawi says is an homage to Art Deco. With original prints and motifs that evoke that era, design details include eyelets and waists seamlessly integrated into their signature pieces, including the best-selling Soliman dress.

Knitwear with crochet details and feminine tops are another feature, rendered in poppy reds, “Byzantine” blues and Deco prints. But if you prefer a more muted palette, don’t worry, most styles are also available in soothing neutrals.

You’ll find carefully crafted and expertly placed touches like embroidery, pin-stitching and hand-smoking.

I caught up with Cortbawi to learn more about her business, her plans and her plans for the rest of 2022.

What was it about art deco that inspired you for this collection?

“The art deco period is so rich in detail, and we found inspiration in the architecture, jewelry and vintage posters of the Swedish flower market. The collection’s prints, embroideries, knitting techniques and garment constructions all have a decorative element – from the flannel flower motif in our crochet and knit, to the poppy that inspired the print and eyelash. Diamond shapes are seen in lace trims and smocking details, and there are dresses with subtle wave constructions that accentuate the waist. The color palette is very much of that era: poppy red, dusty rose to bright blue and burnt orange. The RHODE dress in our floral deco print pretty much sums up all the elements of inspiration.”

Did the pandemic affect your design process for this collection?

“Since the pandemic, we are designing at least 2-3 months earlier than usual and this allows us more time for the most important part, the research and creation of the designs that all happen in our studio in Brooklyn. I think that alone has improved our process and allowed us to dig deeper into research and development and even explore new categories. Of course, styles are also changing as our lifestyles change, from having the perfect home outfit (sales of our Paradis dress soared during the pandemic and remains a best seller today) to a greater focus on styles that are designed for parties, events, and travel – a return to dress.”

Who is the client you are designing for?

“Our client is global, the appeal of Merlette is that it is suitable for Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles, London and Sydney. Our main markets are in these cities and customers usually buy designer clothes and are discerning in terms of fabrics, hand feel and prefer natural fibres. They are looking for value in a different way, not for an occasion, but for something to hold and cherish for years to come and can be worn in many ways. It is also popular with quite a wide age range, I always use the example that Merlette is worn by all my friends and team, as well as our mothers. Now that we’ve increased our size range and have some popular items at our opening price points, we’re starting to see a younger customer as well.”

Any plans you’re excited about for the rest of the year?

“We’ve worked with an amazing group of creative talent on our campaigns this year and I look forward to continuing that collaborative process. It has been a great joy to evolve and explore a new side of Merlette. I’m also excited to travel internationally again and enjoy a welcome holiday with my family in Spain this summer.”



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