Designers of color receive recognition for their contribution to fashion, but say work remains to bring diversity to the industry

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Harlem’s Fashion Row’s 15th anniversary fashion show, in partnership with LVMH, showcased work by designers of color such as Cotte D’Armes.Dia Dipasupil/Getty Images

  • A Harlem’s Fashion Row event showcased creatives and designers of color.

  • The event honored the late Virgil Abloh, who served as the first black creative director at LVMH.

  • The show was one of several efforts LVMH is pursuing to increase diversity in fashion.

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton honored the legacy of Virgil Abloh, the visionary who served as the French luxury giant’s first black creative director, with an event during the 15th annual show for Harlem’s Fashion Row.

Harlem’s Fashion Row, which supports and features work by black and Latino designers, had models of all backgrounds walk the runway to a mix of classical and hip-hop music. Black and Latino fashionistas mingle on the red carpet and sip glasses filled with Chandon.

For one evening, creators of color took center stage, taking credit for their huge influence on global fashion. As a white woman, I could not fully understand the significance of the night. But I was happy to witness it.

The Harlem’s Fashion Row show is one of LVMH’s latest steps to become more diverse and inclusive.

For Alencia Lewis, an African-American model featured in the show, the partnership between LVMH and Harlem’s Fashion Row marked an important moment for the industry.

“For me to be here, it’s me pushing the vision that Virgil had for fashion, which was more diversity,” Lewis said of Abloh, who died in November.

For Alencia Lewis, an African-American model featured in the show, the partnership between LVMH and Harlem's Fashion Row is an important moment for the industry.

Alencia Lewis, a model in the show, said the partnership between LVMH and Harlem’s Fashion Row was a great start to increasing diversity in luxury fashion.Marguerite Ward/Insider

LVMH, home of Louis Vuitton, Moët Hennessy, Tiffany & Co. and Sephora, was the event’s title sponsor. The company has promised to push for change in an industry not known for its diversity in its leadership ranks, starting with more partnerships with designers of color.

Black designers and fashionistas of color are cautiously optimistic, saying LVMH could set a new standard for an industry that has long had a diversity problem.

“I want to see consistency throughout the year,” Lewis, 29, said. “I want to see Asian, Latino, Black, African creators featured in everything, in all of your ads and shows throughout the year. After all, this is a global brand. People look different and they deserve to have that representation “.

Honoring Abloh means increased diversity at all levels

Virgil Abloh posing in front of a display of pink flowers.

Virgil Abloh served as the first black creative director at LVMH.Francois Durand/Getty Images

Despite LVMH’s recent efforts around diversity, there is more to do, four black creatives at the event told Insider.

“I definitely think big brands investing in black creatives like they are right now is overdue,” said Chimere Ingram, an African-American designer whose brand, ByIdol, was featured at the event. “At the same time, it’s a great thing that they’re seeing how much we have creatively.”

Indeed, people of color and Latinos have led many fashion trends that big brands have taken advantage of, whether it’s hoop earrings, long nails, or rap music.

“Many have built their brands on our culture, whether it’s African culture or hip-hop culture. Now we’re being recognized for our work,” added Ingram, 42. “We need this recognition to continue. We need to see each other.”

Jen Evans, a 21-year-old content creator, agreed.

“This is a game-changer to celebrate Virgil’s legacy. Growing up, I didn’t see a lot of people my skin color or people who looked like me in the industry, so tonight means everything to me,” said Evans, who it is black. .

“For LVMH to be here now is for them to start a whole movement for themselves and for other big brands around the world,” she added.

LVMH’s diversity journey is far from over

The luxury brand recently committed to mentoring 75 designers of color, investing in historically black colleges and universities, and working with nonprofits like the NAACP Legal Defense Fund.

For more than a decade, LVMH has provided 1,500 high school students in France with internship opportunities each year. Many of these students are African immigrants from marginalized backgrounds. And beginning in 2008, the company began working with an independent diversity firm to audit its recruiting practices to help ensure that hiring managers are not biased or discriminatory.

The brand also made waves with its announcement of Abloh’s leadership in 2018 and its partnership with Rihanna for her Fenty fashion line in 2019. (Rihanna and LVMH have agreed to suspend their Fenty fashion collaboration, less than two years after launch.)

Chimere Ingram, an African-American designer whose brand, By Idol, was featured at the event.

Chimere Ingram, whose brand, ByIdol, was featured at the event, said luxury brands should give creators of color the overdue credit they deserve.Marguerite Ward/Insider

Yet for all LMVH’s work to promote diversity, and despite having a diverse workforce, its senior leadership remains overwhelmingly white.

It’s a problem the brand’s leadership is aware of.

“We want to have diverse leadership teams across all our brands that reflect the world we live in, the customers we serve and the employees who work for us,” said Gena Smith, chief human resources officer at LVMH. . “It’s about starting with the objective, having very key actions that you hold yourself accountable for, and communicating where you are.”

The luxury conglomerate said in early 2021 that it planned to have people of color in senior management positions reach 30% within five years. So far, LVMH is on track to achieve its goal, according to executives.

People of color now compromise more than 30% of leadership positions from vice presidents up in North America, according to Corey Smith, LVMH’s head of diversity and inclusion. The company has its sights set on diversifying the C-suite next, he said.

“This is not just about tonight,” said Smith, who is black and Latino. “It’s about how we partner with entities like Harlem’s Fashion Row to really expose creatives to what it takes to operate in this industry. But it’s also a two-way street. We’re getting exposure and understanding their needs as well for help them succeed.”

Harlem’s Fashion Row CEO Brandice Daniel said the partnership with LVMH felt intentional and serious in nature.

“Having a brand like LVMH says: ‘We see you. We want to support the next generation of designers,’ means more than I can explain. I think it’s incredible that HFR and Black designers in general are getting this kind of support.” said Daniel, who is Black, to referenced Harlem’s Fashion Row. “This is what we’ve dreamed of getting for years.”

Harlem's Fashion Row 2022 event sponsored by LVMH featured work by black designers and models of all backgrounds.

Harlem’s Fashion Row 2022 event.Marguerite Ward/Insider

Read the original article on Business Insider



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