Elegance is back in fashion

As renaissance clothing tightens its grip on fashion, with designers referencing trends from the 1990s, Y2K and – soon to follow – the so-called Indie Sleaze of the 2010s, the autumn/winter collections offer a moment: a humble current in which the lower lines fall. , necklines go up and the most “classic” silhouettes come to the fore.

For every Miu Miu-inspired micro mini in the shows last February there was a full New Look skirt: Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Bottega Veneta included mid-length leather versions in purple or bright yellow; Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons paired gray and black skirts with tonal sweaters at Prada; while at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri coordinated Bar’s traditional jackets with pleated calf-length styles.

At Patou, designer Guillaume Henry took the sportswear codes established by the brand’s namesake in the 1920s and challenged them with full, pleated skirts, turtlenecks and layers of gold chains. “This collection is about movement, freedom and the idea of ​​comfort at the same time. I wanted to offer a lot of options to a woman who wants to feel confident in what she’s wearing, while feeling comfortable,” says Patou.

Back to the basics

One of the most talked about items of the autumn/winter season was the white vest, which appeared in numerous collections. Prada and Loewe had classic versions with stripes that highlighted each brand’s logo on the front; at Chloé and Bottega Veneta the tank was kept clean, tucked into trousers or jeans; while Sacai’s slightly sheer iteration was teamed with a long black skirt.

One of the most talked about items of the season was the white vest, which appeared in numerous collections

The luxe vest was part of an overarching streamlining trend of designers going back to basics. “I looked at the ideal of ease, but also of acceleration, of the native type of New York,” says designer Khaite Catherine Holstein, who showed white turtlenecks with black, oversized jackets and jeans. “Classic silhouettes are made memorable by details,” she says.

True blue denim was a big feature throughout – Hedi Slimane’s Celine show included 18 pairs of jeans, usually slightly faded and wide-cut at the leg; at Givenchy, designer Matthew Williams combined simple white tops with baggy skater styles; and at Alaïa, designer Pieter Mulier gave denim a denim kick and tucked it into a white shirt—a classic combo if ever there was one. Even Demna Gvasalia’s latest fashion collection for Balenciaga included jeans and a T-shirt.

“These are items our customers buy to elevate their everyday look, a classic with a twist,” says Libby Page, senior market editor at Net-a-Porter. “Sales of Loewe’s logo tanks have confirmed this for us, selling out globally within the first week of being uploaded.”

A touch of drama

The humor about winter coats is larger than life – think Tom Wolfe Fire of the VanitiesIvana Trump in her prime or the original series of Dynasty. There are no shrinking violets here.

Loud colors and vibrant prints have been called ‘dopamine clothing’, an upbeat armor to defy everyday reality

At Anthony Vaccarello’s standout show for Saint Laurent, the main event was the oversized outerwear: faux fur coats with nothing underneath; overcoat with massive jacket and jacket; and jackets with large collars paired with long, beautiful dresses and shiny bangles. Stella McCartney and Gucci also played with oversized faux furs; Versace and Acne both blew the coattails; while Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu took tailored outerwear to their exaggerated finish.

Leather played a key role. At Prada, the black and pink versions were given strong shoulders; Ann Demeulemeester sent biker jackets to the floor; and Jonathan Anderson deconstruct a classic cut at Loewe.

“Leather outerwear was prevalent in many shows, from corduroy biker jackets at Chloé, hot pink belted coats at Prada and vinyl at Courrèges,” says Browns womenswear buying manager Holly Tenser. “Floor floor-length coats were my highlight this season, with some incredible neutral options at Givenchy and classic black wool at Elleme.”

Black out

Loud colors and vibrant prints have had a lot of airtime since the Covid hit – dubbed “dopamine wear”, a kind of upbeat armor to counter the grim reality of everyday life. This look remains relevant this season, but it’s also practical black – to roll up your sleeves and get on with it.

At Net-a-Porter, black has always reigned supreme – it’s still our best-performing colour’

Pierpaolo Piccioli Valentino’s autumn/winter show consisted of just two colours, playing like a two-part act – a series of glorious hot pink looks set against a similar pink ensemble and 33 all-black looks that were different just in cut and texture. Givenchy, too, showed a funeral procession of dark looks that played with band T-shirts, and Ralph Lauren, who showed at the Museum of Modern Art, offered a slim collection in just black, white and red.

It’s a move shoppers will love – as nothing sells better than black. “At Net-a-Porter, black has always reigned supreme – it’s still our best-performing color to date and our biggest investment,” says Page. For autumn/winter, the retailer has stocked just 700 black dress options – “for every shape, size, aesthetic and beyond”.

negligee dressing room

Underwear-inspired details – including lace, sheer materials and silky slips – appeared on catwalks from New York to Paris, as designers reinterpreted the usually hidden codes of the everyday. Simone Rocha sheer, embroidered slip dresses over gray wool shorts and coordinates; Gucci included a black lace bodysuit with thigh-high stockings under an oversized faux fur coat; while the opening look at Fendi featured pale pink and red pants tucked under a fluffy bolero.

“Stella McCartney’s layering of men’s coats over slip dresses showed us how to wear underwear as ready-to-wear today,” adds Net-a-Porter’s Page, “or with a simple cardigan – as brilliantly done at Bottega Veneta.” .

Many designers incorporated themed underwear—another recurring detail of the season—elevating the theme to casual wear. Emerging designer Nancy Dojaka has been playing with bras and strappy details since her debut at London Fashion Week in 2019; this season, her finale looks included a sheer sequined top and matching tights and dress that swirled at the top before falling to the floor.

In a collection inspired by the progressive artists of Berlin in the 1930s, Erdem offered a more modest take on the trend, with a series of embroidered V-neck dresses paired with long neck scarves. “Holiday wear is definitely back with a bang,” adds Browns’ Tenser.

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