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The fashion industry always gets excited before the show season, but there is significantly more enthusiasm than usual for the Spring/Summer 2023 season.
Incredibly busy schedules are planned across New York, London, Milan and Paris, running from September 8 to October 4, featuring successful brands back on schedule, new designers creating buzz at the big houses of legacies and newcomers making their debut.
Change, on which fashion thrives, is in the air. Puig-owned Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Nina Ricci are expected to name new creative directors soon. Jonathan Anderson, Martine Rose and Harris Reed are such names in the ring, but no one has been confirmed. A question mark also hangs over whether Tom Ford will sell his American designer label to Estée Lauder Companies (which already operates its beauty license).
New York: Bigger places, more celebrities
At New York Fashion Week, the schedule is full again. Opening the season are Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, who are celebrating the brand’s 20th anniversary. The week will be closed by Tom Ford. “New York Fashion Week will be the most powerful schedule in real life in many seasons, with international brands recognizing the power of the American market,” said Steven Kolb, chief executive of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). “Last season the mood was resilience and optimism. This season I would say it’s about owning the success.”
In particular, the week has attracted two big European names. Francesco Risso’s Marni is appearing in the city as part of a so-called world tour to “get closer” to its global customers, as the creative director recently put it. Business Vogue. Fendi, led by womenswear creative director Kim Jones, plans to throw a celebration of its iconic Baguette bag. It is also in a festive mood Voguewhich will host its inauguration Vogue Global event, including a live editorial fashion show presenting curated looks from the Autumn/Winter 2022 collections of a number of brands, such as Balenciaga, Valentino, Conner Ives and Collina Strada. (Vogue AND Business Vogue share a parent company, Condé Nast.)
Elsewhere, Tommy Hilfiger, Eckhaus Latta and Area all return to the New York schedule, while upstart Peter Do is presenting menswear for the first time. The menswear shows remain packed, with Telfari conspicuously absent.
