Compared to women’s fashion, men’s style has evolved at a glacial pace. In the time it would take for our jacket lapels to widen half an inch, or for pleats to be considered acceptable in a pair of trousers, women’s silhouettes can expand and contract at a dizzying pace.
Hemlines went up and down like elevators, shoulder pads went in, out and back again, and bags would do all kinds of special things, and still a lot of us guys would be wearing the exact same things we had 10 years ago .
And then everything changed. Covid revolutionized the way we dress. If your wardrobe mantra right now is “I refuse to be anything less than extremely comfortable” or “Damn it – I’m only getting dressed to leave the house!” few of us are approaching style the way we did before 2020. That was on my mind recently as I took in the new Spring 2023 collections in Florence and Milan. Many of the traditional Italian tailoring houses had modified their offerings to offer what their stylish customers were now looking for: softer silhouettes with added comfort that still allowed them to look elegant and expressive.
To better understand this new mix, I figured we should go straight to the source. Writer Aleks Cvetkovic asked three of Italy’s most interesting labels how their philosophies have changed over the past 30 months. If you, like us, look at Italian men and often wonder how they stay so effortlessly atop the style tree, this story offers some clues for fall and summer beyond.
For this issue of Style’s fashion story, we flew possibly the hottest male model of the moment, Clement Chabernaud, to one of the coldest places, Iceland, to road test some glorious gear for the upcoming season. The rugged terrain and erupting geysers provided a fittingly dramatic backdrop for the heavy knits and rugged outerwear now on offer.
A few years ago, when I lived in London, my wife and I drove to the Lake District, 100 miles south of Scotland, for my birthday and a reservation at L’Enclume, the best restaurant in Britain. That was certainly my opinion after a tasting menu that lasted for hours and included 19 courses (including a rather special birthday cake), especially as it featured a three-carrot dish that defied any attempt to reconcile the incredible flavors with it. which I was enjoying, well. , carrots.
The Michelin Guide recently caught on and awarded Simon Rogan, the man behind it, its coveted third star. But L’Enclume is about much more than just an award. It has helped change the way Brits and tourists view the north of England and has done as much to protect locally grown produce as anywhere else in the country. There are new Rogan openings in the UK and Hong Kong, and locations to come, he expects, in London and New York in time. Our profile of the chef and his growing collection of destination restaurants can be found here.
Covering clothing, interiors, travel, nightlife and more, the latest trend we’ve been watching with interest can be said to be rooted in punk attitude and remix culture. It’s how once-traditional jazz piano bars in heritage hotels have gone fresh, prompting lines down the block. That’s why designers are pairing their collections with reimagined staples like contemporary streetwear and the reason for the growing popularity of country clubs. There’s also a TikTok hashtag (of course): #oldmoneyaesthetic. But when WASP privilege is being adopted and espoused by those you might expect to find uncomfortable, you know something’s up. Read “Old School’s New Cool” at the link here.
Elsewhere you’ll find bespoke Berluti sneakers, high-tech wine cellars, a $2 million reminder of what made Ferrari, Ferrari, and a deep dive into the strange world of art crime.
Enjoy the issue.
