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Following the influence of Le Smoking and other Saint Laurent creations that were considered avant-garde at the time, more ready-to-wear brands began offering pantsuits. However, it took time for them to become widely accepted women’s clothing, and it wasn’t until the 1980s that women started wearing them to the office, sometimes with the era’s large shoulder pads, Palmer explains. In the 90s, pantsuits were finally normalized in women’s wardrobes. During that era, Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela made waves by experimenting with deconstructed tailoring, while Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto championed loose asymmetrical suits.
If you look closely, this season’s badass suits bring back some of those big, game-changing silhouettes of the ’90s and early 2000s, says Palmer. “It’s probably kind of a reaction to the very, very tight clothes that have been in fashion for so long,” she says. New workwear is all about comfort, and suits are no exception. Emily Gordon-Smith, director of content at trend intelligence agency Stylus, sees this relaxed fit as the way forward. “We’ve been chasing a comeback in tailoring for a few years now, but it’s been gentle [knit fabric] pantsuit that is winning with consumers,” she says. “Light volume with a casual quality is the key to this silhouette’s success – nothing like the limited, restrictive tailoring of traditional office wear or ’80s-influenced historical powerwear. The soft fit of the pants can take you from brunch to the boardroom and is very forgiving.”
Beyond a fine, comfortable fabric, the key suits of autumn/winter 2022/2023 have a key color from head to toe, according to Gordon-Smith. “One-tone clothing is all the rage, and the bolder the better,” she says. “So think hot pink or green suits styled in a bold monochromatic way with matching shoes and accessories.” On the runways, there were suits in warm black, moss and bordeaux at The Row, in bright fuchsia at Valentino and in beautiful shades of yellow at Jil Sander and Michael Kors. While classic wool ensembles continue to dominate the catwalks, designers are also offering pantsuits in more interesting textiles as well, Gordon-Smith points out, like velvet and satin.
Like many other trends, it’s not the first time that oversized pantsuits have been on the catwalk. However, what seems new now is the range of earthy and vibrant colors in which it appears. The way these outfits are being styled also feels fresh: with square-toed shoes or white running shoes à la Hailey Bieber, for example, or with perfectly colored coats and shirts, which we’ve all seen, from Julia Roberts to Zendaya. Sometimes there’s no top at all – or just a triangle bra, as shown at Stella McCartney. “The key is style,” says Gordon-Smith. “It’s not about regular silhouettes and heels; it’s soft volume, a relaxed edge and smart sneakers all the way.”
Best of all, the first comfort suit of the season is an effortless workwear option that will impress while easing the transition back into the office world and redefining power dressing for an era new work in progress. Pantsuits take care of the ‘What am I going to wear?’ question,” says Palmer. “You have an ensemble that is complete.”
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