The outpouring of tributes from designers, from Stella McCartney to Paul Smith, reflected the influence the late Queen Elizabeth II had on the British fashion community throughout her reign. From the way London legend Alexander McQueen constantly referenced royal iconography, to Erdem Moralıoğlu’s reimagining of the Queen’s stories for his own narratives, Her Majesty, as Sarah Burton said, “has been a constant source of stability.” But beyond the obvious references – scarves, moccasins and ladies’ bags – there are other, quieter ways in which the passionate advocate for quality helped raise the bar for making our clothes.
Announcing Richard Quinn as the inaugural recipient of the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design in 2018, Her Majesty touched on the talent at the heart of the country she represented: “From Hebrides tweed, Nottingham lace and of course Carnaby Street, our industry of fashion has been known for exceptional craftsmanship for many years and continues to produce world-class textiles and cutting-edge practical designs.” This excellence – the very foundation of British fashion – is echoed in the Royal Warrant system, which the V&A’s senior fashion curator Sonnet Stanfill classifies as “a mark of distinction that suggests heritage and tradition”. For a brand to be welcomed into the royal family (tenure holders must have supplied goods or services to the Queen or the former Prince of Wales, now King Charles III, for at least five years) is a true indication of the best. British – not the loud, polite style, but the quiet, classic built to last.
“As a Royal Warrant holder, we adhere to the highest ethical and environmental standards,” says Jo Smith, Warrant holder at tailoring specialist Daks, which was first awarded the Royal Warrant by Her Majesty 60 years ago, and enjoyed visits from the Queen to her Larkhall factory in Scotland. “That’s why our procedures and standards are rigorous – from the procurement of raw materials for our fabrics, to the treatment of staff in factories and excellence in finished products and services.”
