The return of fashion in the French capital

The fashion industry gathered at the Who’s Next Fair in Paris to place orders for the spring/summer season 2023. Many brands continue to take orders despite the risk of a recession in Europe.

Fashion companies return to Paris with optimism

“After two years, we have done very well,” Puneet Ahuja said in an interview during the fair on Saturday. “It’s like a new beginning, we’re quite pleased.”

Ahujasan, owner of a New Delhi-based shamish company, was unable to leave India for two years due to measures to combat the coronavirus. It is the first time since the outbreak of the pandemic that she has been able to meet her clients from Europe again in person. So far she has seen clients from countries such as Spain, Italy, France, Germany and the UK, but not from Scandinavia or Japan.

Although Who’s Next never stopped holding fairs after the outbreak of the pandemic, attendance was lower than in previous editions, as buyers and brands could not travel due to coronavirus restrictions. But bustling aisles and booths at the Paris Fair, which began Friday and ends today, suggest business is back.

“With customers returning to Europe, we think buyers and brands are even more enthusiastic,” Mercede Vafai, artistic and commercial director of Parisian fashion label Naughty, said in an interview on Saturday. The brand has over 800 sales points worldwide and has 40 stores in France and Switzerland.

In previous editions, the fair was quite empty, Wafai said. “The last couple of years have been tough for everyone and now everyone wants to go out and buy.” He expects that next year revenues will increase from 45 to 60 million euros.

Who is next is Retoma Nivelles Prepandemia

The fact that the SS23 version of Who’s Next has reached 1,000 entrants is another sign of a return to pre-pandemic levels. Thirty-three percent are brand new, Frederic Mauss, director general of the WSN Fair organization, said in an interview Saturday. “This is an important moment for us.”

He attributes the return to the fact that despite the hygiene measures, the fair has never lost the shopping season during the pandemic. “You also can’t underestimate the need to look and feel in clothes,” he said.

Maus said visitor numbers could even reach pre-pandemic levels or fall slightly as shoppers in China continue to struggle with travel. Final figures will be released this week. Shoppers at department stores, online retailers and multi-brand boutiques visit Who’s Next. According to Mauss, about 50 percent of visitors come from France, 25 percent from the rest of Europe and the remaining 25 percent from the rest of the world.

cheerleader and light collection

The Superbowl theme brought a touch of humor and joy to the return of the fair. As in an American stadium, merchandise featuring a peacock mascot could be purchased at the entrance, and cheerleaders acrobated the aisles of the fair, as if to appease the fashion industry.

Entering the fair, long summer dresses with prints stood out, the light colors of the collection evoking holiday sensibilities. For jewelry, more intricate gold earrings and pendants were featured, such as pieces from French brand La Cabane de Fénet.

“It just keeps getting better,” said Fanet Hernett, the brand’s founder. There are delicate necklaces and earrings with dried plants surrounded by resin.

After performing for the first time last September, Harnett attended the fair for the third time. The number of their customers is increasing and the quantity they order is increasing by 20 percent in sales. “This version is better because people from the United States and Japan are coming back,” he says.

New customer

Many raffia bags and straw hats are easily found in the accessories section. Several sneaker brands can be seen, some made from durable materials like apple leather, but also shoes with their own strong design language, like Chi Mihara.

Yolanda Rico, head of sales for the Spanish shoe brand, said on Sunday: “It’s been a much better season for us than last season, as well as for other people I’ve spoken to.” The first and second days were particularly good with customers from countries such as France, UK, USA, Belgium, Israel and Jordan in attendance.

Rico expects Sundays and Mondays to be quiet, as a second fashion show called Crescendo will be held at Parc Floral from September 4 to 6 with around 350 brands. Consumers are buying more during the pandemic and the brand also acquired new customers at the fair.

Despite a general sense of optimism, uncertainty remains as to how business will develop from now on. Consumers in many European countries are worried about inflation amid the Russian invasion of Ukraine and supply chain problems. The latest economic indicators in Germany and France point to the risk of an economic slowdown. But these trends do not affect many of the brands that participated in Who’s Next, many of which operate in the higher price segment.

“Everyone in Europe believes a recession is coming,” says Ahuja. “Everyone is worried about the war because it’s been a long time, but at the same time, there is an opportunity to buy. So that’s confusing, but the buying is still there.” Ahuja said that buying during the pandemic is up to 40 percent stronger.

Nicolas Bezi, director of the Danish company DK, said: “We are very satisfied with our business in France. The bigger brands are doing good numbers and business volume, the new brands we are launching are evolving and performing well.” Clothing brands like Ichi or Casual Fridays.

After stopping for several seasons during the pandemic, the company returns to the fair to present the main points of its brands, most of the purchase meetings will take place in the showroom.

“There are many questions about the economic crisis, rising prices for everyday items,” said Bezzi. “Buyers are wary, but at the same time we know that life goes on and business goes on. We are positive.”

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE, and was later translated into Spanish and edited by Alicia Reyes Sarmiento.