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The Emmy Awards will take place on September 12, and the TV Academy has partnered with the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising Museum (FIDM) for the annual Art of Costume Design in Television exhibition. It highlights styles from more than 20 popular shows, including lavish Regency-era gowns in Netflix’s “Bridgerton” and mid-century looks in Amazon’s “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel.”
FIDM Chair of Fashion Design Nick Verreos takes the audience inside the exhibition.
How has screen size affected the way designers are approaching dressing for TV?
[Many people] watch shows on a small iPhone and many times you have to focus on the power of the colors [and] the power of texture.
I think what’s even more important now is shooting from three quarters. You really don’t know what the cameraman is going to zoom in on, so costume designers have to think even more about the little details: jackets, jewelry and hats.
Also what has changed is the quality of film and TV. It has become much sharper. There used to be so many rules about colors you couldn’t use, and a lot of them are now out the door.
Which costumes from “Brigerton” have been exhibited?
The costume designer for Netflix’s “Bridgerton” incorporated contemporary references to the period costumes in the show, like this woolen hunting suit worn by Kate Sharma’s character. Photo by Benjamin Shmikler/ABImages, courtesy of the FIDM Museum.
There has been a lot of talk about the costumes on the show and whether or not they are period accurate. The show’s costume designer actually said in an interview that … there is a period-accurate basis of [show’s] costumes and designs, but she likes to add contemporary aspects.
Much of the fabric is … of this time. … For example, [the show features] the Sharma family of Indian origin. The costume designer wanted to make sure to pay homage to their Indian heritage in their Regency style period costumes. So you see this with the uses of gold, bajak and jewel colors as well as a lot of embroidery on the jacket.
We have on display a wonderful hunting suit worn by Kate Sharma. It is a deep brown color and a wool dress. But there is intricate embroidery which is a slight nod to the Indian heritage.
We also have Queen Charlotte’s dress. It’s a big green and pink ball gown – very Marie Antoinette-esque – that she wore to the first ball with a big wig, statement necklace and tiara.
What is presented by “The Wonderful Mrs. Maisel?”
The magnificent costumes worn by burlesque dancers in the latest season of Amazon’s The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel are on display at the FIDM Museum’s Art of Costume Design exhibit. Photo by Benjamin Shmikler/ABImages, courtesy of the FIDM Museum.
Many people may not realize that the show is set in the early 1960s. When we think of early 1960s fashion, it is still very 1950s. There is a rule of thumb as to when you define a decade based on fashion. its, and it’s usually after the middle of the decade. So the shapes are still very 1950s.
You have that tailored silhouette, but the costume designer wanted to make sure to include a little bit of boxer briefs. Also starting to creep in in the early 1960s were larger hats, and we see one displayed wonderfully in the exhibition that was worn by Midge’s mother.
We also have some very risque but fabulous costumes, and they are from the stripper episode. The costume designer had to design costumes for all the burlesque dancers, and so we have two of them. The pom-pom one is a showstopper.
How difficult is it for designers to create something as effortless as Grace’s costume exhibited by “Grace and Frankie?”
The timeless outfit worn by Jane Fonda’s character Grace in the Netflix series “Grace and Frankie” represents “the West Coast version of the Upper West Side,” says FIDM Fashion Design Chair Nick Verreos. Photo by Benjamin Shmikler/ABImages, courtesy of the FIDM Museum.
I think that’s the thing. A lot of times people say that if you don’t notice the costumes on a TV show, especially a contemporary show, then the costume designer and their crew have done their job. If it looks like it’s part of the character, then the costume designer has really done her job.
I think for “Grace and Frankie,” the costume designer does a great job of showing the … “old man style,” but really defines the characters of “Grace and Frankie.”
We have Lily Tomlin as Frankie, the more bohemian, artsy character and then Jane Fonda as Grace. It is very elegant and represents the style of Malibu-Bel Air – the West Coast version of the Upper West Side.
What are the main points from “EUFOR?”
The bold blue suit worn by the character’s grandmother Fez in “Euphoria” was created by New York seamstress Amber Doyle. Photo by Benjamin Shmikler/ABImages, courtesy of the FIDM Museum.
Heidi Bivens is the costume designer and she actually comes from the world of fashion. She likes to create portraits of characters through clothing and you can see this in “Euphoria”.
You see something on screen that Zendaya wears, and it’s pretty casual … but along with it, she’s wearing a vintage Gaultier vest that the costume designer found.
There’s also a gorgeous blue suit worn by Fez’s drug-addled grandmother, which was custom-made by a New York seamstress named Amber Doyle. It is very wonderful.
How do the dresses worn by Cassie and Maddy from “Euphoria” reflect their characters and their relationships with each other?
The costume designer from the hit HBO show “Euphoria” likes to create character portraits through outfits like these two dresses worn by the characters Maddy and Cassie, says FIDM’s Chair of Fashion Design, Nick Verreos. Photo by Benjamin Shmikler/ABImages, courtesy of the FIDM Museum.
The Cassie outfit – I call it the Daisy Duke outfit – is part of her transformation or “crazy trick”. She is trying to look sexier and so her fashion is trying to convey this to the audience and her classmates.
Then there’s Maddy in her uber sexy black cut-out dress. Everyone on the internet loved that dress. It actually comes from a clothing line called AKNA. It’s all about conveying who you want to be through fashion. This is something very important, especially for this young generation. Characters and this age group [are all] about taking ownership of your body, being comfortable with it, and being comfortable with fashion.
What makes the costume appear from “Angelyne“Unique?
The Peacock series, Angelyne, features her LA icon of the name, who is known for her pink outfits and the chicken-shaped bag she carries. Photo by Benjamin Shmikler/ABImages, courtesy of the FIDM Museum.
Chicken bag, pink, faux fur jacket. It’s just iconic Angelyne.
The costume designer had to custom-make almost every single costume for that series because it’s such a difficult body shape, but it’s all about the pink. You think of pink and you think of it as a childish color, but she wanted to take ownership and make it sexy.
I also thought it was fascinating that the costume designer said that the wardrobe team had to create different harnesses and different types of body prosthetics for her throughout Angelyne’s years. I thought it was a great look, and it just needs to be on a big billboard for sure.
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