How to wear a suit without a tie—more success than these world leaders

However, they lacked a unified policy on how to look polished without a knot of silk to complete their ensembles. Most only released one shirt button, although Mr Draghi dared to release two. Outgoing British Prime Minister Boris Johnson’s shirt collar, untethered and flapping wildly, seemed to be flying faster than his grip on his office. Collectively, their outfits looked odd, as if they’d been wearing ties that morning but had taken them off just before the camera rolled. (Which may have been the case.)

“Taking off your tie is a way of saying, ‘Hey, I’m cool and I’ll be open with you,'” said Richard Thompson Ford, a law professor at Stanford University and author of Dress Codes: How Fashion Laws made history.” But the styling instincts of the leaders achieved the opposite. “They don’t look comfortable. There is something unpleasant [their outfits]” said Mr. Ford.

The scene in Bavaria reinforced a difficult issue facing many men: As dress codes relax and increasingly telegraph chokers, men are left to dress without their trusty silk companions for dates, weddings, cocktail parties and, in Spain, it seems that most of the government. jobs. On July 29, Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez announced that he has asked public officials not to wear front ties “when not necessary” in an effort to save energy (presumably in air conditioning, though he did not specify ).

A missing tie can leave men with an “unfinished” look, said Lauren A. Rothman, a personal stylist to politicians and businessmen in Washington, D.C. “I see many of my clients struggle …[They’re saying]’I had my collection of designer ties and now [they] feel like a lot. What am I going to do next?’”

When there’s no silk belt to divert the eye, it’s especially important that the suit fits well, said Dag Granath, co-founder of Stockholm tailor Saman Amel. The jacket should sit well over your shoulders and hug the back of your neck, he said, praising the fit of Mr. G-7. Draghi of Italy (top left, top). A relaxed, unstructured shoulder – rather than a boxy cord – is ideal, said London tailor Charlie Casely-Hayford, because “the softer line pairs beautifully with an open collar shirt”. Among his other tips: Higher-waisted pants help reduce the “unattached white space in the middle of your body.”

Both tailors were deeply troubled by the collar of Mr. Johnson. When you go without a tie, Mr. Casely-Hayford said, do your best to keep your collar tucked under your jacket. Choose longer and wider collars; spread collar; button down collar – or skip the issue and wear a collared shirt. Mr Casely-Hayford’s main solution? One piece collar. Cut from a single piece of cloth—instead of two, like a regular collar—it has a loose roll that “looks great without ties.”

Another risk when it’s unrelated: Looking blah without that pop of color. So consider other ways to introduce the character, Mr. Granath said. Avoid a shiny, Botox-polished wool suit and opt for soft-textured tailoring fabrics: brushed flannel, mottled blend, herringbone, or Birdseye, a cloth filled with tons of tiny bumps like an armadillo’s armor. No need for bold shades. Marina, chocolate or charcoal work well, Mr. Granath said. Textured fabrics “give your eye something to rest on without changing the level of formality.”

Zach Garst, a tax consultant in Houston, applies similar thinking to his support outfits. Since severing ties after WFH, Mr. Garst, 25, paired his suits with “more adventurous” button-downs, including supple linen ones and a textured number. He’s also trying out cashmere-linen polo shirts, which, he said, “create that Mark Zuckerberg-in-a-jacket-and-t-shirt tech situation that I don’t necessarily want to be a part of.”

For Robert Giaimo, a restaurateur in McLean, Va., it’s all about accessories with colorful touches. “Once the tie is done, I would never go without a pocket square and fun socks,” said Mr. Giaimo, 70. When attending weddings in recent months, Mr Giaimo livened up his sapphire blue Canali suit with a pink pocket square. and matching socks. “[The suit] it doesn’t even seem complete without them,” he said. “It’s a nice sight.” And, perhaps, one worthy of the next phase of the G-7.

SEAMLESS COMBO

Three not-so-great suits with alternate shirts to try

1. A simplified view

Band collar shirt can only with wear without ties. A non-shiny flannel jacket looks cool; a pocket square adds flavor. Jacket, $1,835, Drakes.com; shirt, $280, General Dispensary, 917-472-7018; pocket square, $45, ToddSnyder.com

2. A stylish polo comes in

Textured with little bumps, a Birdseye suit doesn’t need support players. A formal, linen-blend, button-down polo completes the cool affair. Jacket, $895 with suit pants, ProperCloth.com; shirt, Similar styles for $275, TheArmoury.com

3. A happily unbuttoned collar

A one-piece collar casually swirls inside a cashmere flannel jacket. Saman Amel jacket, about $3,200, available September, MrPorter.com; shirt, $195, P. Johnson, 917-533-5879; sunglasses, $385, GarrettLeight.com

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