Men’s Day in New York
In 2013, menswear sales significantly outpaced womenswear in the US market: the menswear category grew by 4.8%, while womenswear grew by 4.5%. Flash forward to 2022: menswear sales are, essentially, spectacular. “Business is very strong in men — the strongest I’ve seen in my career,” Bob Mitchell, co-CEO of Mitchell’s Stores, told WWD in April.
When the odds of turning a profit are so good, some powwows become a no-brainer, and that certainly seemed to be the case at Friday’s Men’s Day in New York, a biannual showcase of new men’s clothing and brands. genre, structured to give unknown creators a critical platform. .
Eleven designers in total presented at NYMD 2022: Amirok (menswear), Atelier Cillian (menswear), A.Potts (genderless), Fried Rice (genderless), Holo Market (menswear), Nicholas Raefski (menswear), Nobis (menswear), Teddy Vonranson (menswear), Terry Singh (menswear), Todd Patrick (menswear) and SO.TY (gender).
Atelier Cillian showed a Greek-inspired gold-painted suit with a distinctly Chanel-like tweed.
Teddy Vonranson, A.Potts and Holo Market all communicated attractive, desert, Rachel Comey-goes-west energy; everything these designers showed off looked pretty comfortable and easy to throw on. The use of neon and pot fringe added welcome foreign elements. Vonranson’s nude sand-colored coats gave me a strong The Row vibe.
Nobis, a Canadian luxury outerwear company, immediately caught the eye on Friday morning: while beauty is a modeling requirement, the male models Nobis tapped were visibly, incredibly handsome in a way that added major context to their outfits: these are elegant coats. , smart shell jackets and solid-looking trousers for hard-nosed, wealthy athletic guys in their late 20s and early 30s.
Terry Singh was another highlight of the morning: Thom Browne, the Prince of Prep, immediately sprung to mind as he took in Singh’s designs, almost all wearing ankle-length pleated A-line skirts, matching with t-shirts, suit jackets or bow ties. But there’s something refreshing about the palest blue mixed with the designer’s palette, as well as the polished drape that makes the clothes look plain, rather than pretty.
In the afternoon, Fried Rice blew away the competition with a fun and upbeat presentation that saw models dancing on Rihanna’s runway in deconstructed tracksuits and camouflage suits that proved as lucrative as the soundtrack.
Todd Patrick served up tangerine J Crew vibes in his gelato-colored outfits, while a green monochrome outfit from SO.TY consisted of a strategically ripped tank and dramatic bell bottoms.
Amirok showed minimal, beach-style cardigans and shorts, all of which appeared to be made of black cloth; hell yes.
Alex J. Rosenfeld/Getty Images
Posing his models in a Jet Age set that could have been ripped straight from the lobby of the TWA Hotel, Nicholas Raefski evoked whimsical retro futurism with color-blocked red and gray suits, paper jackets for a fictional lunar high school, and knitwear with a funky robot design. At the center of it all was Flavor Flav, posing for the cameras in a combination of circuit shorts and bomber jacket; his giant signature watch hanging around his neck. Helen Holmes
Hill Road
All that glitters is well, glitter, at the Collina Strada show on Friday. Pantomime butterfly patterns flutter beneath the setting sun, nestled among wildflowers in the Williamsburg Maritime Cemetery Landscape. True to form, the label’s hyper-feminine punk-ish aesthetic featured an array of deconstructed chiffon dresses and shirts. It was a whimsical and delightful feast for the eyes. Sarah Shears
